Day 1 - Tuesday February 26. 2008
Oslo - Amsterdam - Lima
Since the flight was already at 06:40 in the morning, I chose to spend the night at the NSF's facilities and work. I took the airport train at 04:45 from Oslo Central Station and checked in with the other two guys early in the morning. We chose to skip alcohol so early in the morning and settled for just sitting and waiting for the flight to Amsterdam, which was the first leg of the journey.
Upon arrival at Schiphol, we moved to the next departure terminal for the flight to Lima and Peru, after purchasing a couple of half-liter bottles of water each. Shortly thereafter, it was time to board the plane and truly begin the long journey – and the vacation. I had already dozed off on the flight from Oslo, but it wasn't difficult to doze off on the next flight either...
After a looong flight of 13 hours, we were tired and weary with a sore rear end, despite having gotten a few hours of sleep each in dreamland. But now we were finally in Lima, in the late afternoon local time. We made it through passport control and baggage claim – without any of our suitcases going missing – and met up with the group we were going to travel around Peru with.
There were 21 travelers plus tour guides and drivers. Out of the 22 (including the main tour guide), there were 7 of us who were Norwegian, while the rest were Swedish.
After a short bus ride, we arrived in the Miraflores district and the José Antonio hotel. Here, we gathered in the bar and were welcomed with the national drink, the Pisco Sour. Additionally, the three of us guys had a medicin, aka. gin and tonic afterward, while everyone else had quickly retired to their rooms to get some sleep.
Day 2 - Wednesday February 27. 2008
Lima
We started the day with a good breakfast. And as usual in warmer climates, with freshly sliced fruit. Mmmm... Then it was time for a city tour of Lima.
We started by taking a leisurely bus tour around San Martin Square before moving on to the cathedral. In front of the cathedral, there was a small square surrounded by the cathedral complex on one side, the presidential palace on another side, and the central Lima city hall on a third side. Inside the cathedral, we primarily visited the crypt of Francisco Pizarro, followed by a quick tour of the rest of the cathedral. From the cathedral, we took a fifteen-minute walk through the old quarters to the Franciscan Monastery in Lima. Here, we continued with a tour of the monastery, including a visit to the catacombs beneath the monastery where there used to be a burial site.
From the monastery, we were once again driven by bus to the archaeological museum, where we received a quick overview of the various cultures that had existed in Peru up to and including the Incas. Special emphasis was placed on the Chavin and Moche cultures. After the museum, we went to have a nice lunch before heading down to see the Love Park on the cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. The tour concluded with a visit to the Gold Museum, featuring a fantastic private collection of gold and silver objects from earlier periods of Peru's history.
Back at the hotel, we parted ways before us three guys gathered in the bar for the second GT of the trip. We then went down to a large shopping center built into the cliff facing the Pacific Ocean, where we had dinner.
After another GT in the hotel bar, it was time to retire to our hotel room for a good night's sleep.
Day 3 - Thursday February 28. 2008
Lima - Ica
A new day dawned, marking the beginning of our tour as we bid farewell to Lima for the time being. But first, we made a stop in the artistic district of Barranco, where we took a short stroll. This area had previously been a small fishing village but had now evolved into a neighborhood in Lima.
Then we began our journey southward towards Ica, which was our destination for the day. We made a stop at Pachacamac, which had been a religious center across several cultures but now lay in ruins. Here, we were shown some of the temple ruins scattered throughout the vast area. We took a stroll through the Inca Sun Temple at the top.
The rest of the day was mostly a journey, with stops for lunch and an unplanned visit to observe an asparagus plantation. Not long after, we arrived at the hotel in Ica. The afternoon was free, with some choosing to relax, some spending time by the pool, and others taking a tour of the area.
Eventually, us three guys gathered for a GT, which turned into two GTs as it was Happy Hour with a buy one, get one free offer! Finally, there was a group dinner for everyone before we called it a night and went our separate ways.
Day 4 - Friday February 29. 2008
Ica - Nasca via Paracas
This was one of those days when we had to start early as departure was scheduled for 06:45. We traveled about an hour back towards Lima to the Paracas area. Here, we boarded a boat that would take us on a tour around the Ballestas Islands.
We stopped at the Paracas Peninsula on the way out to see a figure in the sand called the Candelabra. Out by the islands, there was abundant birdlife with large colonies of cormorants and northern gannets. Additionally, there was a colony of seals, as well as some Humboldt penguins. After a relaxing half-hour in the fishing village, we boarded the bus and continued our journey.
We returned to Ica and visited the archaeological museum for the Ica region. Then we continued to the Huacachina oasis, where we had lunch and relaxed for a bit. The rest of the day was purely a transport leg to Nazca. We first stopped at a viewpoint where we could see the Pan-American Highway winding over a ridge and down to a lush riverbed – Rio Grande, before climbing up the next rugged ridge. On the way to Nazca, we also made a stop at the Nazca Plateau where we climbed up a lookout tower and saw the first Nazca lines.
Upon arriving at the hotel, we relaxed for a bit before it was time for a group dinner. Afterwards, we retired to bed after a long day.
Day 5 - Saturday March 1. 2008
Nazca
This was a day where we could relax a bit. Since we weren't moving, there was no stress about luggage. After breakfast, we took the bus and were driven to the airport in Nazca. That is, we settled into the hostel across the street. Here, we were divided into 5 groups which were eventually called up and crossed the street to board waiting small planes. This plane took us on a round over the famous Nazca Lines, where we got to see the Whale, Trapezoids, Astronaut, Monkey, Dog, Condor, Spider, Hummingbird, Alcatraz, Parrot, Hands, Tree and Palpa bird, Pelican, and Star, as well as the underground aqueducts. The whole flight took about 40 minutes, and then we were back down. Those who didn't go up and fly relaxed at the hostel.
After everyone had completed their flight, we went to a pottery workshop called Tobi's. Here, Tobi himself showed us how the pottery was made, specializing in replicating the techniques of the ancient Nazca people from 1500 years ago. After the visit to Tobi's, we returned to the hotel for a late lunch.
The rest of the day was at leisure, so most of us just relaxed at the hotel. In the evening, we had dinner before retiring to our hotel rooms.
Day 6 - Sunday March 2. 2008
Nazca - Arequipa
This was the day for the really long bus journey on this trip. Today, we were traveling from Nazca to Arequipa. Along the way, there were, of course, some stops planned, where we traveled through the desert landscape.
The first stop was at a sandy beach near Canaca. Here, those who wished had the opportunity to take a quick little wade in the Pacific Ocean. However, the water wasn't particularly warm as the Humboldt Current passes right by. The current also brings waves that not everyone managed to gauge well while wading...
After a good journey further down the coast, we stopped in Chala for a tea and coffee break. After about half an hour, we continued until we stopped for a late lunch in Camana.
From Camana, we then headed up into the mountains where we had a brief stop to stretch our legs, before finally arriving in Arequipa at an altitude of nearly 2400 meters.
After a relaxing afternoon, we had a simple dinner in the bar before, tired from all the bussing, we went to bed.
Day 7 - Monday March 3. 2008
Arequipa
This day was planned for a city tour in Arequipa. We were starting to ascend to higher altitudes, so the day also served as an acclimatization day. Personally, I had a night troubled by a loose stomach, so I decided to skip today's excursion and instead have a relaxing day at the hotel.
For those who joined the excursion, they first went up to a viewpoint overlooking the city. Then, they visited a pharmacy where they received an introduction to various medicinal plants from the area.
Then, they headed to another viewpoint where there was also a small baroque church. Afterwards, they visited to gain insight into the local agriculture.
The next stop was a tour of a convent, concluding with a visit to a Jesuit church. Finally, they visited the cathedral before ending the entire tour with a group lunch.
The rest of the day was free for everyone to relax at the hotel. In the evening, we had dinner at the hotel, enjoyed a GT at the bar, and then retired for the night.
Day 8 - Tuesday March 4. 2008
Arequipa - Puno
After yesterday's restful day, it was time for another long journey and transfer. This time, we were heading further up the mountains from Arequipa to Puno by Lake Titicaca.
We began the day with a stop in Arequipa to stock up on water and energy drinks, which would come in handy at higher altitudes. Then, we continued out of Arequipa, where shortly after, we stopped at a lookout point where we could overlook a section of the Qoicos landscape.
After driving further up into the mountains, we entered Salinas National Park, where we first made a brief stop to see Vicuñas. Shortly after, we had another stop where we took a break and visited the restroom. Here, we also got to taste the specialty - coca tea.
After about half an hour, we continued to our next stop at Crucero Alto – the highest point of the journey at 4528 meters. Here, the effects of the altitude became noticeable. One of the participants experienced difficulty breathing, but fortunately, the bus was equipped with an oxygen tank, so after a short period of direct oxygen supply, he felt better. Shortly after, we had lunch outdoors with packed lunches from the hotel. We sat on some stools overlooking Lake Lagunillas. There was also an opportunity to use the restroom, although it wasn't the most inviting.
After continuing our journey, we made a stop at Sillustani, which was a burial ground for a pre-Inca culture. A walk up the small hill was noticeable due to the altitude, as the summit was at almost 4000 meters. The last stop along the way was at a farm near Sillustani, where some of the local culture was showcased.
The very last stop was at the hotel in Puno, situated on a peninsula jutting out into Lake Titicaca. Here, we had a simple dinner and a GT before following most of the others in the group and heading to bed.
Day 9 - Wednesday March 5. 2008
Puno and Lake Titicaca
This was also going to be a calm day. We had a morning excursion out on Lake Titicaca to visit some reed islands. Houses were built on these reed islands. Each reed island was initially floating but anchored so they wouldn't drift away. There was a large family living on each island. The islands were next to each other, numbering around 45 in total. This had become its own community, and the inhabitants were called the Uros people. We received an introduction to their way of life, shopped for souvenirs (of course), and took a tour in a reed boat.
After returning to the hotel, those who wanted to took the boat back to the city (Puno). Typically, only 6 out of 21 did this. The rest of us chose to stay at the hotel and relax for the rest of the day, having a small lunch for the three of us and a group dinner in the evening.
Day 10 - Thursdag March 6. 2008
Puno - Cusco
We drove for a while longer and arrived at the town of Pucara, where we had a restroom break and stocked up on water and other drinks.
Then we continued over the Alto Plano until we reached the highest point of the road at La Raya. Here we made another restroom stop and did some shopping at the local market. From there, we continued downwards to Sicuani, where we had lunch.
After Sicuani, we continued on to Andahuaylillas, where we drove into the narrow streets and stopped at the town square. Here, we had a tour of the old church and could shop at the local market in the square. On the way out of town, we passed by Piñipampa, where roof tiles were being made.
Ikke lenge etter passerte vi også porten til Cusco, hvor vi rett etter stoppet ved ruinbyen Pikillaqta. Her hadde vi en omvisning og fikk et lite innblikk i Wari-kulturen. Deretter dro vi så videre inn til Cusco og sjekket inn på hotellet.
We three opted for a simple dinner at the hotel followed by a GT in the bar. It didn't seem particularly tempting to venture out into the hailstorm raging outside.
Day 11 - Friday March 7. 2008
Cusco
Today we were just taking a tour of Cusco. We started on the other side of the road from the hotel. There was a Dominican monastery built over an old Inca temple. The remains of the Inca temple were still present. This was the original sun temple in Cusco, and thus probably the main temple for the entire Inca empire. First, we saw the remains of the rainbow temple, then the temple of lightning. Then we saw how the stones were fitted together just stone against stone. Next, we visited an exhibition room in the monastery with various paintings. These were paintings from the 15th and 16th centuries by local artists who had incorporated different Inca symbols into the Catholic paintings. We continued to see the star temple and then the sun temple itself, which had also served as an observatory. On the way out, we also saw a solar panel with insights into the Inca worldview.
After the monastery with the temples, we took a walk up through narrow streets to the main square - Huakaypata. Then we took a tour through the Cathedral of Cusco.
After the cathedral, we were driven up to another Inca temple called Saqsaywaman. This ruin is located on a hill above Cusco. After getting off the bus, we had a half-hour walk around and up and down the area. We walked up to the top (phew) and got a very good view of Cusco. In the temple construction itself, we also saw stones weighing over 100 tons. As a conclusion to the group excursion, we then took a walk down to the cave temple Q'enqo.
Back at the hotel with the afternoon free, the three of us took a walk back to the square and went into the Inca Museum located in one of the side streets. Afterwards, we had a combined lunch and dinner at one of the restaurants by the square before returning to the hotel. Later in the evening, we had a GT at the hotel bar before going to bed.
Day 12 - Saturday March 8. 2008
Machu Picchu
So the big day had arrived - the day we were going to see Machu Picchu. Unfortunately, Geir fell ill during the night and had to skip the trip and instead seek medical help.
We started the tour as early as 5:45 with a bus ride to Ollantaytambo down in the Urubamba Valley. In Ollantaytambo, we switched to a train that took us to Agnas Calientes at the foot of Machu Picchu. The train journey itself was fantastic as we followed the Urubamba River downstream into the jungle with tall mountains on both sides. In Agnas Calientes, we took another bus up winding roads up the mountainside to Machu Picchu itself.
We entered the site itself and were completely overwhelmed by the place – it was fantastic. We had a guided tour around the city, with a lot of climbing both up and down in the blazing sun, before we continued out of the area for lunch. After lunch, there was time on our own to further explore the city. Kristen and I chose to take a trip up to a viewpoint we hadn't visited during the guided part before heading back again.
Later, we took the bus back down to Agnas Calientes. There was plenty of time for shopping before we had a group dinner. Then it was time to start the train journey back to Ollantaytambo and then continue by bus to Cusco.
Back at the hotel, Kristen and I had a GT, got an update from Geir, then it was time for a shower and to crawl into bed after a long but memorable day.
Day 13 - Sunday March 9. 2008
Ollantaytambo
This day was the last with the adventure program; the rest would consist of transportation stretches. We were supposed to start the day with a visit to Chinchero but stopped before that at a viewpoint up on the high plateau.
In Chinchero, we visited a weaving workshop and gained insight into how the yarn was stretched, cleaned, dyed, and finally woven. After the workshop, we briefly visited the local Sunday market.
The next stop in the Urubamba Valley was Ollantaytambo. Here, we were going to visit the ancient Inca ruins in the town. This also involved a walk up the ruins, which was a little test of fitness and breath at the altitude. However, most people made it to the top of the temple.
After safely descending, we began our journey back to Cusco. Our first stop was at a local pub where we received an introduction to making corn beer, before later enjoying lunch. Following a satisfying meal, we continued through the Urubamba Valley to Pisac, where we made another stop to browse the local market. With only the journey home remaining, we made a final stop at a viewpoint overlooking Pisac, offering a stunning view down the Urubamba Valley.
Later in the evening, the entire group had a collective dinner out on the town, marking the final evening in Cusco.
Day 14 - Monday March 10. 2008
Cusco - Lima
Now it was time to start thinking about the journey back home. The program for this day primarily consisted of a flight from Cusco to Lima. We packed our belongings and headed to the airport in Cusco. At the airport, there was the usual waiting for the plane to be ready before we boarded and the flight could begin.
Upon arriving in Lima, we were driven to the same hotel where we had stayed during our previous visit. We concluded the day, and indeed the journey, with a farewell dinner in Lima, dining at a restaurant surrounded by ancient ruins.
Day 15 - Tuesday March 11. 2008
Lima - Amsterdam
This day it was time for the big flight back to Europe. Once again, it was about packing up our belongings and heading back to the airport – this time in Lima. We waited as usual for the plane for a while before boarding, and the long flight to Amsterdam began.
Day 16 - Wednesday March 12. 2008
Amsterdam - Oslo
Arriving at Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam, we just had to find the right terminal for the flight to Oslo. Before heading to the plane, we said goodbye to most of the travel companions as they were taking another flight to Stockholm.
Upon arrival in Oslo, we bid farewell to the rest of the travel group, including the three of us, and headed home after a memorable trip - once again.