Roundtrip in Peru

From February 26. to March 12. 2008

Day 1 - Tuesday February 26. 2008

Oslo - Amsterdam - Lima

 The Presidential Palace in Lima. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 27/2 2008).

Since the flight was already at 06:40 in the morning, I chose to spend the night at the NSF's facilities and work. I took the airport train at 04:45 from Oslo Central Station and checked in with the other two guys early in the morning. We chose to skip alcohol so early in the morning and settled for just sitting and waiting for the flight to Amsterdam, which was the first leg of the journey.

Upon arrival at Schiphol, we moved to the next departure terminal for the flight to Lima and Peru, after purchasing a couple of half-liter bottles of water each. Shortly thereafter, it was time to board the plane and truly begin the long journey – and the vacation. I had already dozed off on the flight from Oslo, but it wasn't difficult to doze off on the next flight either...

After a looong flight of 13 hours, we were tired and weary with a sore rear end, despite having gotten a few hours of sleep each in dreamland. But now we were finally in Lima, in the late afternoon local time. We made it through passport control and baggage claim – without any of our suitcases going missing – and met up with the group we were going to travel around Peru with.

There were 21 travelers plus tour guides and drivers. Out of the 22 (including the main tour guide), there were 7 of us who were Norwegian, while the rest were Swedish.

After a short bus ride, we arrived in the Miraflores district and the José Antonio hotel. Here, we gathered in the bar and were welcomed with the national drink, the Pisco Sour. Additionally, the three of us guys had a medicin, aka. gin and tonic afterward, while everyone else had quickly retired to their rooms to get some sleep.

 In the Cathedral in Lima. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 27/2 2008).

Peru

Peru is a republic in South America, bordering the Pacific Ocean, situated between Ecuador and Colombia to the north, Brazil and Bolivia to the east, and Chile to the south. Its capital is Lima.
The Andes Mountains run through Peru from northwest to southeast, serving as the country's most central geographical feature. There is an inland lowland east of the Andes Mountains, toward the Amazon Rainforest.
Peru was the heart of the Inca Empire, which extended from present-day Colombia to Chile, with its capital in Cuzco. The country was conquered by the Spanish between 1531 and 1533 and became the seat of the Spanish viceroyalty in South America. Peru declared itself an independent republic in 1821.
Due to its historical heritage and biological diversity, Peru is a major tourist destination attracting visitors from around the world, with tourism being a key industry. The most visited sites include the Inca city of Machu Picchu in Cuzco, the Amazon Rainforest, and Lake Titicaca. Peruvian cuisine, including dishes like ceviche, has gained international recognition in recent years.
The name "Peru" comes from a river name in an indigenous language, Bíru or Piru, and Peru's national anthem is "Somos libres, seámoslo siempre" (We are free, may we always be so).
Peru's land area is equivalent to the combined area of Spain and France. The country's topographical variations result in 18 ecological regions, contributing to a great diversity of biodiversity and resources.
On the western side, at the foot of the Andes Mountains, there is a narrow coastal plain characterized by desert. This alternates with lush valleys along rivers originating in the Andes and flowing toward the Pacific Ocean (known as the Costa region). The coastal climate varies from relatively mild to very hot in the north. Humidity is high, but there is little rainfall. Despite its equatorial location, the coast is cooled by the cold ocean current known as the Humboldt Current.
The mountain region is called the Sierra. In northern Peru, the mountains are somewhat lower, with a humid climate and rich vegetation. In the central region, the mountains are higher and the valleys narrower. Here lies Huascarán, Peru's highest mountain at 6,768 meters above sea level. In southern Peru, the mountain ranges are wide, and the Andean high plateau (Altiplano) is found. Temperatures in the mountain region vary significantly due to differences in altitude. The mountain region has two main seasons: the rainy season (November–March) and the dry season (April–October).

 The Moon Temple in Pachacamac. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 28/2 2008).

The lowland region east of the Andes Mountains is called Selva, referring to the Amazon Rainforest. The Amazon River is formed in Peru, where the Marañón and Ucayali rivers meet. There is a distinction between highland rainforest (Selva alta) and lowland rainforest (Selva baja). Temperature and humidity are high year-round, with abundant rainfall. Both areas boast dense vegetation and significant biodiversity. The Amazon Rainforest is one of the most biologically diverse areas in the world.
Peru's history dates back 20,000 years when population groups migrated to present-day Peru from North America. The Chavín de Huantar civilization in the Andes Mountains (1500–500 BCE) was long considered the oldest in Peru. However, recent archaeological research shows that the Caral civilization (2700–1600 BCE) is older, with the oldest urban settlement in the Americas.
Before the Inca Empire emerged in the 14th century, several civilizations existed, including Paracas, Nazca, Chachapoyas, Moche, Tiwanaku, and Chimú. All were agrarian societies with rudimentary state formations. They developed technologies to master their environments and shared many cultural traits. The Inca Empire built upon the knowledge of these early civilizations and became the most advanced state formation in the Americas.
During the colonial period (1532–1821), the Inca population was subjected to Spanish rule. Society was divided into two: República de Blancos (Spaniards) and República de Indios (indigenous population), each with its own governance and authorities, with the indigenous population under Spanish control. The system of "reducciones" and "encomiendas" (administrative and territorial units for settlement and control of the indigenous population) provided labor for Spanish landlords, leading to the eventual takeover of land belonging to the indigenous population. At the same time, society became more complex, giving rise to new population groups: criollos (Spaniards born in America) and mestizos (mixed Spanish/indigenous).
Peru became an independent republic in 1821, marked by political strife and power shifts. The present-day Bolivia emerged from these conflicts when the region known as Alto Perú became Bolivia. A stable period in the mid-19th century was followed by economic prosperity due to revenue from guano (natural bird fertilizer), but it had little impact on the country's economic development. The War of the Pacific, also known as the Saltpeter War, took place from 1879 to 1883; initially between Chile and Bolivia, Peru joined due to a cooperation agreement with Bolivia. Peru lost the war to Chile in 1883, resulting in the loss of significant territories in the south.
(Based on García-Godos, Jemima: Peru in Store norske leksikon (Norwegian encyclopedia))

 The Ballestas Islands. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 29/2 2008).

Day 2 - Wednesday February 27. 2008

Lima

We started the day with a good breakfast. And as usual in warmer climates, with freshly sliced fruit. Mmmm... Then it was time for a city tour of Lima.

We started by taking a leisurely bus tour around San Martin Square before moving on to the cathedral. In front of the cathedral, there was a small square surrounded by the cathedral complex on one side, the presidential palace on another side, and the central Lima city hall on a third side. Inside the cathedral, we primarily visited the crypt of Francisco Pizarro, followed by a quick tour of the rest of the cathedral. From the cathedral, we took a fifteen-minute walk through the old quarters to the Franciscan Monastery in Lima. Here, we continued with a tour of the monastery, including a visit to the catacombs beneath the monastery where there used to be a burial site.

From the monastery, we were once again driven by bus to the archaeological museum, where we received a quick overview of the various cultures that had existed in Peru up to and including the Incas. Special emphasis was placed on the Chavin and Moche cultures. After the museum, we went to have a nice lunch before heading down to see the Love Park on the cliffs overlooking the Pacific Ocean. The tour concluded with a visit to the Gold Museum, featuring a fantastic private collection of gold and silver objects from earlier periods of Peru's history.

 Birdlife on the Ballestas Islands. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 29/2 2008).

Back at the hotel, we parted ways before us three guys gathered in the bar for the second GT of the trip. We then went down to a large shopping center built into the cliff facing the Pacific Ocean, where we had dinner.

After another GT in the hotel bar, it was time to retire to our hotel room for a good night's sleep.

Day 3 - Thursday February 28. 2008

Lima - Ica

A new day dawned, marking the beginning of our tour as we bid farewell to Lima for the time being. But first, we made a stop in the artistic district of Barranco, where we took a short stroll. This area had previously been a small fishing village but had now evolved into a neighborhood in Lima.

Then we began our journey southward towards Ica, which was our destination for the day. We made a stop at Pachacamac, which had been a religious center across several cultures but now lay in ruins. Here, we were shown some of the temple ruins scattered throughout the vast area. We took a stroll through the Inca Sun Temple at the top.

 Fishing boats in the harbor of Paracas.. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 29/2 2008).

Pachacamac

Pachacamac is a well-known archaeological site on the coast of Peru, approximately 40 kilometers south of Lima. The name refers to the central coast's highest deity, which also held significance for the Incas.
During the so-called Early Intermediate Period (200 BCE–600 CE), Pachacamac emerged as a significant ceremonial center. The adobe pyramid known as the Temple of Pachacamac dates back to this period. In the subsequent era (600–1000 CE), the center grew into a larger city, which seems to have had a special, independent status within the Wari Empire, encompassing large areas of the coast and highlands from 700 to 1100.
During this time, a new artistic style emerged in Pachacamac, featuring the motif of the eagle on ceramics and multi-colored textiles. This style dominated the entire central coast and also influenced areas further south and north. Pachacamac maintained its reputation as a sacred place during the Inca period, as the ruling Incas made pilgrimages to the famous oracle there to seek advice.
(Siverts, Henning: Pachacamac in Store norske leksikon (Norwegian encyclopedia))

The rest of the day was mostly a journey, with stops for lunch and an unplanned visit to observe an asparagus plantation. Not long after, we arrived at the hotel in Ica. The afternoon was free, with some choosing to relax, some spending time by the pool, and others taking a tour of the area.

Eventually, us three guys gathered for a GT, which turned into two GTs as it was Happy Hour with a buy one, get one free offer! Finally, there was a group dinner for everyone before we called it a night and went our separate ways.

 Up in the air to see the Nazca Lines. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 1/3 2008).

Day 4 - Friday February 29. 2008

Ica - Nasca via Paracas

This was one of those days when we had to start early as departure was scheduled for 06:45. We traveled about an hour back towards Lima to the Paracas area. Here, we boarded a boat that would take us on a tour around the Ballestas Islands.

We stopped at the Paracas Peninsula on the way out to see a figure in the sand called the Candelabra. Out by the islands, there was abundant birdlife with large colonies of cormorants and northern gannets. Additionally, there was a colony of seals, as well as some Humboldt penguins. After a relaxing half-hour in the fishing village, we boarded the bus and continued our journey.

Paracas

Paracas is a town located on a peninsula. Off the coast of the peninsula are some islands called the Ballestas Islands. The Ballestas Islands and the Paracas Peninsula are now a national park with ancient cultural remains from the Paracas culture (pre-Nazca) and abundant wildlife.

 The Spider on the Nazca Plain. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 1/3 2008).

We returned to Ica and visited the archaeological museum for the Ica region. Then we continued to the Huacachina oasis, where we had lunch and relaxed for a bit. The rest of the day was purely a transport leg to Nazca. We first stopped at a viewpoint where we could see the Pan-American Highway winding over a ridge and down to a lush riverbed – Rio Grande, before climbing up the next rugged ridge. On the way to Nazca, we also made a stop at the Nazca Plateau where we climbed up a lookout tower and saw the first Nazca lines.

Upon arriving at the hotel, we relaxed for a bit before it was time for a group dinner. Afterwards, we retired to bed after a long day.

Day 5 - Saturday March 1. 2008

Nazca

This was a day where we could relax a bit. Since we weren't moving, there was no stress about luggage. After breakfast, we took the bus and were driven to the airport in Nazca. That is, we settled into the hostel across the street. Here, we were divided into 5 groups which were eventually called up and crossed the street to board waiting small planes. This plane took us on a round over the famous Nazca Lines, where we got to see the Whale, Trapezoids, Astronaut, Monkey, Dog, Condor, Spider, Hummingbird, Alcatraz, Parrot, Hands, Tree and Palpa bird, Pelican, and Star, as well as the underground aqueducts. The whole flight took about 40 minutes, and then we were back down. Those who didn't go up and fly relaxed at the hostel.

 Underground aqueducts at Nazca. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 1/3 2008).

After everyone had completed their flight, we went to a pottery workshop called Tobi's. Here, Tobi himself showed us how the pottery was made, specializing in replicating the techniques of the ancient Nazca people from 1500 years ago. After the visit to Tobi's, we returned to the hotel for a late lunch.

The rest of the day was at leisure, so most of us just relaxed at the hotel. In the evening, we had dinner before retiring to our hotel rooms.

Nazca-lines

The Nazca Lines are a collection of geoglyphs located in the Nazca Desert in Peru. These artworks are situated in an extremely arid area, stretching between the towns of Nazca and Palpa. They were created by the Nazca culture people between 500 BCE and 500 CE.
The lines form various patterns, including drawings of animals such as a hummingbird, lizard, spider, and monkey. The Nazca Lines are most visible from above, for example, from airplanes and satellites. Therefore, it took the Western world many hundreds of years to discover them. One hypothesis is that the Nazca Indians made the images to honor the gods they worshiped, but it's uncertain whether this hypothesis is correct or incorrect.
The lines were created by two methods: either by removing the thin layer of small stones to reveal the light sand underneath or by removing stones to make the surface uniform. It has been suggested that the Nazca Indians walked along the lines in a procession, thus tracing them. It is assumed that mathematical tools must have been used to achieve the precision seen in the drawings, but there is uncertainty about this.
The lines have endured for so many years because it never rains or blows in the Nazca Desert. It has been questioned how the drawings could be useful when they can only be seen from above. One hypothesis was that the Nazca Indians could actually travel through the air, but this is considered unlikely. In the 1970s, some tested the hypothesis by creating a kind of hot-air balloon out of straw and plant material. However, there has never been any evidence to suggest that such a thing was known during the Nazca culture.

 At the beach. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 2/3 2008).

The lines were first described, after being discovered from a mountain, by some archaeologists working in the vicinity. This took place in the interwar period, and it was the American Paul Kosok who wrote about the discovery. He collaborated with the German Maria Reiche, who worked in astronomy.
Since then, it has been common to think that the drawings were related to astronomical observations. However, it has not been possible to explain exactly what significance they had, and many of the hypotheses put forward by Maria Reiche could neither be confirmed nor refuted.
In recent years, with the help of satellite images, several drawings have been discovered nearby, but the extent of the Nazca Lines and the number of them are still unknown. When the Nazca Lines were included on UNESCO's World Heritage List in 1994, only 30 had been found. In 2019, a Japanese research team from Yamagata University announced that they had found 143 new geoglyphs.
(Norwegian wikipedia)

Day 6 - Sunday March 2. 2008

Nazca - Arequipa

 A mountain on the way to Arequipa. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 2/3 2008).

This was the day for the really long bus journey on this trip. Today, we were traveling from Nazca to Arequipa. Along the way, there were, of course, some stops planned, where we traveled through the desert landscape.

The first stop was at a sandy beach near Canaca. Here, those who wished had the opportunity to take a quick little wade in the Pacific Ocean. However, the water wasn't particularly warm as the Humboldt Current passes right by. The current also brings waves that not everyone managed to gauge well while wading...

After a good journey further down the coast, we stopped in Chala for a tea and coffee break. After about half an hour, we continued until we stopped for a late lunch in Camana.

From Camana, we then headed up into the mountains where we had a brief stop to stretch our legs, before finally arriving in Arequipa at an altitude of nearly 2400 meters.

After a relaxing afternoon, we had a simple dinner in the bar before, tired from all the bussing, we went to bed.

The Humboldt Current

The Humboldt Current, also known as the Peru Current, is a large ecosystem in the Pacific Ocean along the west coast of South America. It extends from the southern end of Chile to northern Peru and is among the largest of the currents that bring nutrient-rich water to the ocean surface, thereby enhancing organic production.

 Vicuñas in Salinas National Park. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 4/3 2008).

The Humboldt Current transports cold, low-salinity water from the southern Pacific Ocean towards the equator. Here, photosynthesis produces over 300 grams of carbon in organic matter per square meter in a year. This makes this area the most productive ecosystem in the world. The current also makes a significant contribution to the fishing industry, with almost one-fifth of the world's fish catches originating in the Humboldt Current, particularly species like jack mackerel, Chilean sardine, and anchoveta.
The Humboldt Current is named after the Prussian naturalist Alexander von Humboldt. The low temperatures in Antarctic waters from where the Humboldt Current originates result in the average water temperature along the west coast of South America being up to 7-8°C lower than the temperature in the open ocean at the same latitudes. Another effect is that the sea level (sea surface) here is up to 50 cm lower than in the west of Indonesia and New Guinea.
The cold water cools the air. The coastal areas near the Humboldt Current receive little rainfall and therefore form desert areas, such as the Atacama Desert in Chile. In years with the weather phenomenon El Niño, the cold Humboldt Current weakens; it can then sometimes completely disappear.
(Norwegian wikipedia)

Day 7 - Monday March 3. 2008

 Crucero Alto, the highest point of the tour at 4528 meters above sea level. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 4/3 2008).

Arequipa

This day was planned for a city tour in Arequipa. We were starting to ascend to higher altitudes, so the day also served as an acclimatization day. Personally, I had a night troubled by a loose stomach, so I decided to skip today's excursion and instead have a relaxing day at the hotel.

For those who joined the excursion, they first went up to a viewpoint overlooking the city. Then, they visited a pharmacy where they received an introduction to various medicinal plants from the area.

Then, they headed to another viewpoint where there was also a small baroque church. Afterwards, they visited to gain insight into the local agriculture.

The next stop was a tour of a convent, concluding with a visit to a Jesuit church. Finally, they visited the cathedral before ending the entire tour with a group lunch.

The rest of the day was free for everyone to relax at the hotel. In the evening, we had dinner at the hotel, enjoyed a GT at the bar, and then retired for the night.

Arequipa

 The Royal Tombs of Sillustani. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 4/3 2008).

Arequipa is Peru's second-largest city and the seat of the country's Constitutional Court. The city is located in the Andes Mountains at an altitude of 2300 meters above sea level, at the foot of the 5822-meter-high Misti volcano, and has a population of 1,008,290 (INEI, 2017).
Arequipa is a commercial center for the southern part of Peru, with significant tourist traffic. The city is situated in a fertile agricultural area where corn, potatoes, and vegetables are grown with the help of irrigation. The textile industry is particularly important, with production focusing on alpaca, llama, and sheep wool. The city lies on the Pan-American Highway and has railway connections to the port city of Mollendo and the inland city of Cuzco.
The historic center of the city is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The cityscape is characterized by white and pink buildings made of sillar, a local volcanic rock cut into blocks. Due to the high risk of earthquakes, the city consists mainly of single-story buildings. Arequipa Cathedral, built between 1540 and 1656 and restored several times, is considered one of the country's most magnificent colonial cathedrals.
Before Arequipa was founded as a Spanish city in 1540, the area was inhabited by the Incas. Despite several earthquakes, many colonial-era buildings have been well preserved. In 1612, Arequipa became the seat of a bishopric, with jurisdiction over the southern coastal region of Peru. In the 1790s, Arequipa was the second-largest city in the Viceroyalty of Peru, with a population of 22,030. Many historical buildings were destroyed by a powerful earthquake in 2001, just one year after the old town was inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List.
(Skatvik, Frida: Arequipa i Store norske leksikon.)

Day 8 - Tuesday March 4. 2008

 A floating totora reed island on Lake Titicaca. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 5/3 2008).

Arequipa - Puno

After yesterday's restful day, it was time for another long journey and transfer. This time, we were heading further up the mountains from Arequipa to Puno by Lake Titicaca.

We began the day with a stop in Arequipa to stock up on water and energy drinks, which would come in handy at higher altitudes. Then, we continued out of Arequipa, where shortly after, we stopped at a lookout point where we could overlook a section of the Qoicos landscape.

After driving further up into the mountains, we entered Salinas National Park, where we first made a brief stop to see Vicuñas. Shortly after, we had another stop where we took a break and visited the restroom. Here, we also got to taste the specialty - coca tea.

After about half an hour, we continued to our next stop at Crucero Alto – the highest point of the journey at 4528 meters. Here, the effects of the altitude became noticeable. One of the participants experienced difficulty breathing, but fortunately, the bus was equipped with an oxygen tank, so after a short period of direct oxygen supply, he felt better. Shortly after, we had lunch outdoors with packed lunches from the hotel. We sat on some stools overlooking Lake Lagunillas. There was also an opportunity to use the restroom, although it wasn't the most inviting.

 The Andes Mountains in the background.. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 6/3 2008).

After continuing our journey, we made a stop at Sillustani, which was a burial ground for a pre-Inca culture. A walk up the small hill was noticeable due to the altitude, as the summit was at almost 4000 meters. The last stop along the way was at a farm near Sillustani, where some of the local culture was showcased.

Sillustani

Sillustani is a pre-Inca cemetery located on the shores of Lake Umayo near Puno in Peru. The graves, built above ground in tower-like structures called chullpas, are the remnants of the Qulla people, who were Aymara conquered by the Inca Empire in the 15th century.
The structures housed the remains of complete family groups, although they were likely limited to the nobility. Many of the graves have been looted by grave robbers, while others remained unfinished.
Respect for the dead and kinship were integral parts of Aymara culture, and the immense chullpas or "chupaene" at Sillustani were built to house Aymara elites from the immediate pre-Inca and Inca periods. The term "chullpa" is still used today for the towers, although it was first used in the 19th century and comes from the Dictionary of Ludovico Bertonio (1612).
Many of the chullpas at Sillustani exhibit pre-Inca characteristics that were later incorporated with Inca stone blocks. Similar chullpas can be found throughout the southern Central Andes, with above-ground burial styles dating back at least to the mature Tiwanaku period (around 500–950 AD).
The interiors of the graves were built to accommodate entire groups of people, most likely extended families of Aymara elites. Bodies were not intentionally mummified, but in the dry environment created by the sealed grave, they survived for centuries. Most mummy bundles indicate burial in the fetal position.
Some of the graves also feature various animal forms carved into the stone. The only openings to the buildings face east, where it was believed that the sun was reborn by Mother Earth every day.

 The church in Andahuaylillas. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 6/3 2008).

While chullpas are not unique to Sillustani and are found across the Altiplano, this site is considered the best-preserved example of them. A large ramp on one of the chullpas shows how stones would have been stacked on the walls during construction. Father Cobo observed Inca builders using a similar ramp in the construction of Cusco Cathedral.
(English wikipedia)

The very last stop was at the hotel in Puno, situated on a peninsula jutting out into Lake Titicaca. Here, we had a simple dinner and a GT before following most of the others in the group and heading to bed.

Day 9 - Wednesday March 5. 2008

Puno and Lake Titicaca

This was also going to be a calm day. We had a morning excursion out on Lake Titicaca to visit some reed islands. Houses were built on these reed islands. Each reed island was initially floating but anchored so they wouldn't drift away. There was a large family living on each island. The islands were next to each other, numbering around 45 in total. This had become its own community, and the inhabitants were called the Uros people. We received an introduction to their way of life, shopped for souvenirs (of course), and took a tour in a reed boat.

 Touring the ruins of Pikillacta. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 6/3 2008).

After returning to the hotel, those who wanted to took the boat back to the city (Puno). Typically, only 6 out of 21 did this. The rest of us chose to stay at the hotel and relax for the rest of the day, having a small lunch for the three of us and a group dinner in the evening.

Titicaca

Titicaca is the largest lake in South America. It sits at an elevation of 3,812 meters above sea level on the border between Peru and Bolivia and covers an area of 8,300 square kilometers (km²); some measurements show 8,100 km². Titicaca is considered the world's highest navigable lake and is a popular tourist destination.
Titicaca drains into the Desaguadero River, which flows into the landlocked Lake Poopó. The lake has many islands, including the Island of Titicaca, which has ruins from the Inca period and earlier periods. Titicaca is known for its numerous endemic species, including the Titicaca grebe and the giant coot (which is flightless), as well as the Titicaca water frog that lives in the lake's deep waters.
(Store norske leksikon (2005-2007): Titicaca in Store norske leksikon (Norwegian encyclopedia))

The totora reed islands on Lake Titicaca

 The Monastery in Cusco. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 7/3 2008).

The artificial reed islands in Titicaca, Uros, are a major tourist attraction. They are made of totora reed. The reeds grow abundantly along the shore.
The islands were built in Inca times by Indians who wanted to escape enemies. Now, tribes live there who speak Quechua and Aymara.
According to legend, the Uros Indians themselves had black blood that helped them survive the nights on the water and protected them from drowning.
(Norwegian wikipedia)

Day 10 - Thursdag March 6. 2008

Puno - Cusco

So it was once again time for a long bus journey, from Puno to Cusco - the last long leg of the trip. After leaving the hotel, we made a brief stop at a viewpoint overlooking Puno and part of Lake Titicaca.

 The Inca's worldview in the form of a gold-plated metal disc. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 7/3 2008).

We drove for a while longer and arrived at the town of Pucara, where we had a restroom break and stocked up on water and other drinks.

Then we continued over the Alto Plano until we reached the highest point of the road at La Raya. Here we made another restroom stop and did some shopping at the local market. From there, we continued downwards to Sicuani, where we had lunch.

After Sicuani, we continued on to Andahuaylillas, where we drove into the narrow streets and stopped at the town square. Here, we had a tour of the old church and could shop at the local market in the square. On the way out of town, we passed by Piñipampa, where roof tiles were being made.

Ikke lenge etter passerte vi også porten til Cusco, hvor vi rett etter stoppet ved ruinbyen Pikillaqta. Her hadde vi en omvisning og fikk et lite innblikk i Wari-kulturen. Deretter dro vi så videre inn til Cusco og sjekket inn på hotellet.

Pikillaqta

Pikillaqta, which means "City of Fleas" or "small town," is not just an archaeological marvel. Its intricate urban planning and structures provide insight into the sophisticated society of the Wari people. Delving deeper, one discovers stories of innovation, culture, and resilience.

 The central Cusco from Saqsaywaman. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 7/3 2008).

Pikillaqta stands as evidence of the architectural prowess of the Wari Empire. Unlike other ancient sites, its charm lies in urban design rather than towering temples. This pre-Inca city showcases organized city planning, hinting at a sophisticated society.
Every road and structure in Pikillaqta tells a story. Wari, known for its urban achievements, crafted a city of stone with purpose. Their keen eye for design is evident, blending both form and function.
Its massive walls and grand plazas illustrate precision. Furthermore, its intricate water management system showcases innovation. Pikillaqta was evidently not just a settlement but a symbol of Wari dominance.
While the Sacred Valley may boast wonders like Ollantaytambo, Pikillaqta offers a different spectacle. It provides insights not only into the ruler's realm but also for ordinary people. Residential complexes and streets reflect the rhythm of daily Wari life.
Interestingly, Pikillaqta remains an unfinished masterpiece. Some parts appear incomplete, prompting scholars to ponder. Is it due to external threats, internal strife, or migration? The mysteries deepen the intrigue.
(Tekst hentet fra nettstedet til Magical Cusco Travel Agency)

We three opted for a simple dinner at the hotel followed by a GT in the bar. It didn't seem particularly tempting to venture out into the hailstorm raging outside.

Day 11 - Friday March 7. 2008

 From Saqsaywaman - the temple near Cusco. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 7/3 2008).

Cusco

Today we were just taking a tour of Cusco. We started on the other side of the road from the hotel. There was a Dominican monastery built over an old Inca temple. The remains of the Inca temple were still present. This was the original sun temple in Cusco, and thus probably the main temple for the entire Inca empire. First, we saw the remains of the rainbow temple, then the temple of lightning. Then we saw how the stones were fitted together just stone against stone. Next, we visited an exhibition room in the monastery with various paintings. These were paintings from the 15th and 16th centuries by local artists who had incorporated different Inca symbols into the Catholic paintings. We continued to see the star temple and then the sun temple itself, which had also served as an observatory. On the way out, we also saw a solar panel with insights into the Inca worldview.

After the monastery with the temples, we took a walk up through narrow streets to the main square - Huakaypata. Then we took a tour through the Cathedral of Cusco.

After the cathedral, we were driven up to another Inca temple called Saqsaywaman. This ruin is located on a hill above Cusco. After getting off the bus, we had a half-hour walk around and up and down the area. We walked up to the top (phew) and got a very good view of Cusco. In the temple construction itself, we also saw stones weighing over 100 tons. As a conclusion to the group excursion, we then took a walk down to the cave temple Q'enqo.

Back at the hotel with the afternoon free, the three of us took a walk back to the square and went into the Inca Museum located in one of the side streets. Afterwards, we had a combined lunch and dinner at one of the restaurants by the square before returning to the hotel. Later in the evening, we had a GT at the hotel bar before going to bed.

 From Saqsaywaman - the temple near Cusco. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 7/3 2008).

Cusco

Cuzco is a city in southeastern Peru, nestled in a deep valley in the eastern Andes Mountains, 3,400 meters above sea level, 950 kilometers southeast of Lima. The city has 434,654 inhabitants (INEI, 2015), the majority of whom are indigenous.
Cuzco is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the Western Hemisphere. It still preserves magnificent remnants of the Inca Empire, where Cuzco served as the capital. Since 1983, the city has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, attracting a significant number of tourists each year.
There are archaeological museums, a cathedral (1564), a university founded in 1692, and many other churches and monasteries in the city. The Church and Cathedral of Santo Domingo are built on the ruins of the great Sun Temple of Coricancha, which was the most important temple in the Inca Empire. In a hall adorned with gold plates, stood the image of the sun made of gold and precious stones. Nearby were temples dedicated to the moon, stars, and thunder, as well as the royal fortress and the Saksaywaman citadel. Only the stone wall from the original Sun Temple remains.
During the time of the Incas, Cuzco was shaped like a puma when viewed from above, with the Saksaywaman citadel forming the head of the puma. From this fortress, located just north of the city, one has a panoramic view of the entire Cuzco.
From Cuzco, there is a train to Machu Picchu, South America's most visited tourist destination.
Cuzco is said to have been founded by the first ruler of the Inca Empire, Manco Cápac, but is likely older. In 1533, it was conquered by the Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro and became part of the Spanish Empire. Cuzco suffered significant damage from a fire in 1536 and earthquakes in 1650 and 1950. The city was carefully restored after 1950, with accompanying labor migration from rural areas. Like in Lima and other major Peruvian cities, slum areas called "barriadas" emerged on the outskirts of the city.
(Skatvik, Frida: Cuzco i Store norske leksikon )

 The sundial in Machu Picchu. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 8/3 2008).

The Inca Empire

The Inca Empire ruled over vast territories in South America from the beginning of the 15th century until the Spanish conquest in 1532. At that time, it was one of the world's largest empires, stretching from the Maule River in present-day Chile to the current border between Ecuador and Colombia. The empire had its center of power in the city of Cuzco, located 3400 meters above sea level in present-day Peru. Key features included an agricultural economy based on terrace farming and artificial irrigation in the highlands, as well as an extensive communication network that connected the empire. It is arguably the largest empire to have existed without a written language.
"Inca" is a word from the Quechua language originally denoting the ruler of the Andean empire known to posterity as the Inca Empire. The term was also used for members of the ruler's family, extended to include the lineage or lineages associated with the royal house. The Incas themselves called the empire "Tawantin Suyu," which can be translated as "The Four Regions."
The Inca Empire was the largest political entity in the Americas. Around 1530, it extended from the present-day border between Ecuador and Colombia to the Maule River in Chile, an area approximately the size of France, the Benelux countries, Switzerland, and Italy combined. The population is difficult to ascertain with certainty; one estimate suggests that over four million people were under Inca administration, the majority residing in the most densely populated areas in present-day Bolivia and Peru.
In the early 15th century, the Incas, or the people who later became known by this name, were one of several highland tribes with a state organization. Both states and an empire (Tiahuanaco) comprising multiple states had existed in the first millennium CE. The entire period appears to have been characterized by cyclical conquests and local power shifts, with irrigation systems playing a central role.

 On the edge of the cliff in Machu Picchu. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 8/3 2008).

From the mid-15th century, we can trace the true history of conquest, which begins in earnest with Pachacuti Inca. Together with his son, Topa Inca, he overcame rival states in the highland areas and expanded the territory northward towards Quito. Under Topa Inca, the empire experienced its greatest growth, but neither he nor his son Huayna Capac were able to conquer areas that were ecologically very different from the Central Andes. The southern grasslands and plains of Chile have obviously been as difficult to hold onto as the dry steppes and forests of El Gran Chaco or the tropical rainforest around the sources of the Amazon. For example, they were unable to subdue the Jivaro people who dominated this area.
The Incas' technology, organizational form, and irrigation civilization were adapted to the resources of the highlands and the coastal strip. Just as important as these natural limitations were the differences in political structure. A society that has semi-permanent tropical villages as its largest unit is difficult to incorporate into a state formation. It was more expedient to incorporate districts that were already organized into larger political units.
(Siverts, Henning; Opsvik, Tor: Inkariket i Store norske leksikon)

Day 12 - Saturday March 8. 2008

Machu Picchu

 The water mirror in Machu Picchu. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 8/3 2008).

So the big day had arrived - the day we were going to see Machu Picchu. Unfortunately, Geir fell ill during the night and had to skip the trip and instead seek medical help.

We started the tour as early as 5:45 with a bus ride to Ollantaytambo down in the Urubamba Valley. In Ollantaytambo, we switched to a train that took us to Agnas Calientes at the foot of Machu Picchu. The train journey itself was fantastic as we followed the Urubamba River downstream into the jungle with tall mountains on both sides. In Agnas Calientes, we took another bus up winding roads up the mountainside to Machu Picchu itself.

We entered the site itself and were completely overwhelmed by the place – it was fantastic. We had a guided tour around the city, with a lot of climbing both up and down in the blazing sun, before we continued out of the area for lunch. After lunch, there was time on our own to further explore the city. Kristen and I chose to take a trip up to a viewpoint we hadn't visited during the guided part before heading back again.

Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu is the name of a garrison town from the Inca period. Machu Picchu is located approximately 80 kilometers northeast of Cuzco in Peru. It was built around the year 1430 by the Inca ruler Pachakutiq. When the Spaniards conquered the Inca Empire in the 1530s, the site was an important religious and administrative center. Archaeological excavations since 1911 have uncovered very well-preserved ruins. Based on Machu Picchu's sophisticated architecture and its location in a uniquely rich and varied ecology, the site was granted UNESCO World Heritage status in 1983. Today, the ruins are one of Peru's major tourist attractions.

 Machu Picchu. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 8/3 2008).

Machu Picchu is located at an altitude of 2430 meters, surrounded by peaks over 5000 meters in a national park where the highlands of the Andes Mountains abruptly descend into the Amazon rainforest. The landscape is characterized by deep river valleys and sharp mountain ridges. Climatically, this is also a transition zone. Precipitation increases rapidly as one moves further east. The annual average temperature in Machu Picchu is 13°C, and the average annual rainfall is 1800 millimeters. The result is an exceptionally rich flora and fauna and favorable conditions for agriculture where the terrain allows.
Evidence of agriculture has been found dating back to 760 BCE. The oldest settlements are dated between 600 and 900 CE. Within the park area, 60 archaeological sites have been uncovered. Machu Picchu is by far the largest, but the site had no permanent settlement until 1438 when Inca Pachakutiq conquered the region and decided to establish a llacta (garrison town) here. In all areas that the Inca Empire brought under its control, llactas were established as administrative, religious, and military support points for the empire. Machu Picchu also became the seat of Pachakutiq's own panaka or clan, for when he became Inca, he had to leave his father's clan and become the progenitor of a new one.
Pachakutiq (Spanish: Pachacuti) reigned from 1438 to 1471/1472. He initiated the great conquests that transformed Cuzco from a small kingdom into a world empire. Machu Picchu was built on a mountain ridge at the outermost border of the empire, for military strategic reasons as well as its spectacular location. The empire Pachakutiq founded was also united religiously by a common cult to the sun (inti), a system of 41 ceques (sacred lines) emanating from Cuzco and connecting 328 sacred sites (wak'as) along the lines. All settlements in the Inca Empire had their wak'a and belonged to a ceque. From Machu Picchu (which means 'old peak'), eight roads radiated outwards, and from here, one can follow numerous ceques to various sacred peaks, stone formations, and water sources, all of which were also wak'as.
On a habitable area measuring approximately 530 x 200 meters atop the ridge, between two peaks and where the terrain drops vertically 500 meters down to the Urubamba River on both sides, archaeologists have identified 172 buildings in Inca style, meaning dry stone construction with polished and finely fitted stone blocks. The settlement is divided into four quadrants, with the two lower ones consisting of terraces for intensive agriculture. In the two upper ones, there are numerous temples, residences for noble families and various specialists, as well as various workshops. Like in all Inca cities, there is also an aqllawasi, a 'virgin house' where selected young women lived in service to the temples.

 Visiting a weaving workshop in Chinchero. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 9/3 2008).

Among the temples, the "temple of the sun" (inti mach'ay) stands out as perhaps the most important due to its role in the cult of the sun. The temple is built over a set of caves and is constructed with the finest walls in the city. A tunnel-shaped window casts light onto a series of water pools inside the cave. During the solstices, the sun shines in, and the water surfaces reflect the sun. Another striking temple is the so-called "tower" or sun temple, which likely served as an observatory. In the center lies the Inca's own residence and intiwatana, a finely carved stone shaped like a truncated pyramid flanked by water channels. "Intiwana" means "the place where the sun is tied," referring to its path or sightline. The stone functions as an astronomical clock where the length of the shadow at midday indicates the time of year. On November 11th and January 30th, it casts no shadow.
The city likely had no more than 750 permanent residents. Additionally, there was a constant stream of pilgrims, troops, and visiting specialists. Skeleton analyses show that the residents came from all corners of the empire, probably as mitmaqkuna, people performing labor duty for the Inca. All residents of the Inca Empire were subject to such state-mandated labor service. It is estimated that half of all the work invested in building Machu Picchu went into foundations and infrastructure. The area also includes a quarry and 16 water sources.
On the terraces, maize, potatoes, quinoa, and beans were cultivated, but not enough to feed the city. It relied on supplies from the surrounding area. Archaeological investigations in the national park show a marked increase in population throughout the region from 1430 to 1530.
(Ekern, Stener: Machu Picchu i Store norske leksikon)

Later, we took the bus back down to Agnas Calientes. There was plenty of time for shopping before we had a group dinner. Then it was time to start the train journey back to Ollantaytambo and then continue by bus to Cusco.

 Market Day in Chinchero. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 9/3 2008).

Back at the hotel, Kristen and I had a GT, got an update from Geir, then it was time for a shower and to crawl into bed after a long but memorable day.

Day 13 - Sunday March 9. 2008

Ollantaytambo

This day was the last with the adventure program; the rest would consist of transportation stretches. We were supposed to start the day with a visit to Chinchero but stopped before that at a viewpoint up on the high plateau.

In Chinchero, we visited a weaving workshop and gained insight into how the yarn was stretched, cleaned, dyed, and finally woven. After the workshop, we briefly visited the local Sunday market.

The next stop in the Urubamba Valley was Ollantaytambo. Here, we were going to visit the ancient Inca ruins in the town. This also involved a walk up the ruins, which was a little test of fitness and breath at the altitude. However, most people made it to the top of the temple.

 The royal throne in Ollantaytambo.. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 9/3 2008).

Ollantaytambo

Ollantaytambo is a village and archaeological site from the Inca Empire in southern Peru. It is located at an altitude of 2,792 meters above sea level, around 60 km northwest of Cusco, in the Urubamba Valley on the way to Machu Picchu. The village serves as the administrative center of the Ollantaytambo district in the Urubamba province.
Ollantaytambo was constructed by the ruler Pachakutiq in the mid-15th century. The town underwent significant reconstruction during the colonial period but still follows the original urban plan. Several structures around the town are in ruins and are popular tourist destinations. The most prominent feature is the large terraces that were used for agriculture.
(Norwegian wikipedia)

After safely descending, we began our journey back to Cusco. Our first stop was at a local pub where we received an introduction to making corn beer, before later enjoying lunch. Following a satisfying meal, we continued through the Urubamba Valley to Pisac, where we made another stop to browse the local market. With only the journey home remaining, we made a final stop at a viewpoint overlooking Pisac, offering a stunning view down the Urubamba Valley.

Later in the evening, the entire group had a collective dinner out on the town, marking the final evening in Cusco.

 From the temple in Ollantaytambo. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 9/3 2008).

Day 14 - Monday March 10. 2008

Cusco - Lima

Now it was time to start thinking about the journey back home. The program for this day primarily consisted of a flight from Cusco to Lima. We packed our belongings and headed to the airport in Cusco. At the airport, there was the usual waiting for the plane to be ready before we boarded and the flight could begin.

Upon arriving in Lima, we were driven to the same hotel where we had stayed during our previous visit. We concluded the day, and indeed the journey, with a farewell dinner in Lima, dining at a restaurant surrounded by ancient ruins.

Day 15 - Tuesday March 11. 2008

 From the Urubamba Valley. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 9/3 2008).

Lima - Amsterdam

This day it was time for the big flight back to Europe. Once again, it was about packing up our belongings and heading back to the airport – this time in Lima. We waited as usual for the plane for a while before boarding, and the long flight to Amsterdam began.

Day 16 - Wednesday March 12. 2008

Amsterdam - Oslo

Arriving at Schiphol Airport in Amsterdam, we just had to find the right terminal for the flight to Oslo. Before heading to the plane, we said goodbye to most of the travel companions as they were taking another flight to Stockholm.

Upon arrival in Oslo, we bid farewell to the rest of the travel group, including the three of us, and headed home after a memorable trip - once again.