Day 1 - Friday March 24. 2017
Oslo - Istanbul
Bouddhanath Stupa in Katmandu. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 25/3 2017).
Finally, it was time for vacation again. This time, we were going to travel to Nepal and Bhutan in the Himalayas. The flight first went to Istanbul, and then there was a night flight from there to Kathmandu. The flight to Istanbul didn’t leave until the afternoon, so the morning was spent packing the suitcase. Additionally, I managed to get rid of some of the paper waste that had piled up over thirty years in the old apartment. The lead-up to the trip had been a bit chaotic, as I was also in the middle of moving my things from the old to the new apartment. This meant that a few things were forgotten, but hopefully nothing important.
I took the bus to Oslo Central Station and then boarded the airport express train where the other guys were already seated. It was crowded and tight. Once we arrived at Gardermoen, we checked in and got through security. Then we went through passport control since we were leaving the Schengen Area. Now we had plenty of time and relaxed with a beer before it was time to board the plane.
We boarded the plane and found our seats. A while later, everyone was on board, and the plane could take off heading for Istanbul. After the meal service, we could then have a gin and tonic and really get into vacation mode. However, the flight attendant was very generous with the gin, as the drink was quite strong... There was some sleeping on the flight down before we arrived in Istanbul.
Upon arrival in Istanbul, there was another security check. We had some time before the next flight, but we decided to just have a cola each. After that, we headed to the gate and waited until we could board the plane. Once onboard, I just took out my neck pillow and eye mask to try to get some sleep. I must have succeeded, as I didn’t notice the breakfast the others had around three o'clock...
Day 2 - Saturday March 25. 2017
Istanbul - Katmandu
Swayamboudnath Stupa in Katmandu. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 26/3 2017).
Nepal is a republic in Asia that borders China to the north and India to the west, south, and east.
It is a mountainous country, and in the north of the country lies the world's highest mountain, Mount Everest.
The country is poor, and agriculture is the main industry.
80 percent of the population comes from Northern India, while the rest have Tibetan-Mongolian roots.
Nepal is an old independent state.
The monarchy was established in 1769 and abolished in May 2008, when the country was declared a republic.
A new constitution came into effect in 2015, declaring Nepal a federal democratic republic.
The landscape of Nepal is dominated by mountains, but there is lower land towards the border with India in the south.
Here lies a 15–35 kilometer wide plain (Terai).
Much agriculture is carried out in this part of the country.
Some areas are marshy with dense jungle.
A chain of 900–1200-meter-high mountains (Siwalik Mountains) forms the border between the Terai and the core region of Nepal, the east–west valleys.
North of the central valleys lies the actual mountain landscape: the Himalayas.
Here lies the Earth's highest mountain, Mount Everest, 8844 meters above sea level, along with several other peaks over 8000 meters above sea level.
Nepal has a population of 30.9 million (2023).
Very high birth rates and declining mortality rates have resulted in high natural population growth and a "young" population.
The country has never been colonized, but both India and Great Britain have controlled foreign policy for long periods.
Nepal has had many independent kings with great power and has been relatively isolated from the rest of the world for many years.
The precursor to Nepal was the small mountain state of Gorkha.
In the 18th century, Gorkha, under the leadership of King Prithvi Narayan Shah, conquered several small neighboring states.
Shah conquered Kathmandu in 1786 and laid the foundation for the Kingdom of Nepal.
The powerful Rana family ruled the country from 1846 to 1951, and the king of the country was stripped of political power.
The Rana family ruled by making the position of prime minister hereditary.
In 1960, King Mahendra took power through a coup, dissolved the political parties, and arrested several political leaders.
Nepal was an absolute monarchy for 30 years until democracy was introduced in 1991.
The desire to remove the country’s constitutional monarchy led to the bloody Maoist insurgency that started in 1996.
Nearly 15,000 people were killed in the fighting during the decade-long civil war (1996–2006).
In 2006, a peace agreement was signed between the Maoists and the parliamentary government.
In 2008, elections were held, and the Maoists became the largest party.
That same year, the monarchy was abolished, and Nepal became a federal democratic republic.
A new constitution was adopted in 2015.
On April 25, 2015, Nepal was struck by an earthquake that may have claimed the lives of as many as 10,000 people, with more than 500,000 people becoming homeless.
According to estimates from the UN, eight million Nepalis were affected by the earthquake in one way or another.
The earthquake was the strongest in the country since 1934 and was a severe setback for the country’s economic development.
(Haugan, Siv: Nepal in Store norske leksikon on snl.no - selected sections.)
Katmandu. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 26/3 2017).
I woke up a few times along the way from coughing due to the flu, but fell back asleep again.
A little later in the morning, as we were approaching landing, I woke up from all the noise around me. The plane landed, and we needed to get through immigration, which turned out not to be the easiest task. The visa had to be purchased at the airport through machines, but the machines couldn't read the passports, so everything had to be entered manually. And when the father in front of us didn’t quite understand this, we ended up being among the very last to get through immigration and passport control.
Finally, once we were through, we met the rest of the group of about 25 people we would be traveling with around Nepal and Bhutan. Mostly Swedes, but also some Danes and a Finnish woman were in the group, along with the three of us from Norway. We got on the bus and took the short ride to the Tibet International Hotel in Kathmandu, where we would stay for the next two nights. We checked into our rooms and had a little time for ourselves before the evening program.
The three of us went up to the room and waited for our luggage. Then we gathered and had lunch at the hotel. We were also joined by the Finnish woman. After that, we each went back to our rooms. I personally relaxed a bit and got about an hour of sleep. Then we gathered in the courtyard, and had a short walk until we arrived at Bouddhanath Stupa. This is a large sacred site for the Tibetan branch of Buddhism, and there were many people there walking around the stupa. We took a round around the stupa with a detour to the roof of a nearby temple to get some good panoramic shots. Afterward, the three of us strolled back to the hotel at a relaxed pace, with a stop along the way to exchange some money so we had some Nepalese rupees.
Katmandu. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 26/3 2017).
Back at the hotel, we quickly noticed that we weren’t the first ones back, though there was only a Swedish couple there before us. We sat down in the courtyard and ordered our three usual gin and tonics. After taking our time with the drinks, it was time for a group dinner at the hotel with a buffet. While the others strolled back to their rooms, most of them went to bed. I, on the other hand, took out my laptop and started working on writing my diary. At the same time, I connected to the internet. I took a break for a shower and returned to the laptop only to discover that the internet was gone. And now it suddenly became difficult to reconnect. It took 40 minutes and several attempts before I finally managed to get back online. It helped to use Firefox instead of Explorer... But all the trouble meant that I missed much of the first half of the football match between Salisbury and Hereford. I only got the last five minutes, and by then, Hereford was already leading 3-0! And since both Taunton and Tiverton were losing, the Bulls could become league champions today!
The final result ended 4-0 to Hereford, but due to the low battery on my laptop, I still don’t know the results of the other matches. But it was a great first day, so I can go to bed with a good feeling.
Day 3 - Sunday March 26. 2017
Katmandu
Katmandu. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 26/3 2017).
Kathmandu is the capital of Nepal and is located in the Kathmandu Valley between the Himalayas to the north and the Mahabharat Range to the south, 1,325 meters above sea level.
The city covers an area of 49.45 square kilometers and has 1.42 million inhabitants (2020).
The name Kathmandu refers to a wooden temple (kath, "wood," and mandir, "temple") built by Raja Lachmina Singh in 1596.
The city's former name was Manju-Patan.
Administratively, it is part of the Kathmandu district, which has 1,744,240 inhabitants and an area of 395 square kilometers.
The district has the highest population density in Nepal.
The old town center lies around Asan Tol, with markets and bazaars.
Among the most prominent historical landmarks are the old royal palace (durbar), including the Taleju temple (1549), and Rani Pokhari, "The Queen's Reservoir," from the 1600s.
There is a large number of Buddhist and Hindu temples both in the city itself and in the surrounding areas; several of these are on UNESCO's World Heritage List, including Swayambhunath, Pashupatinath, and Boudhanath.
Many of the cultural treasures were destroyed by an earthquake in April 2015.
Durbar Square in the center of Kathmandu was leveled, including the twin pagodas Shiva and Narayan.
The Dharahara tower, built in 1832, was nine stories high and stood nearly 62 meters above the ground, but only ten meters remain.
Kathmandu was founded in 723 by Raja Gunakamadeva and was an independent kingdom until 1768, when the Shah dynasty conquered the city and merged it with the other two city-states in the Kathmandu Valley:
Patan, located just south of the city on the other side of the Bagmati River, and Bhaktapur, 12 kilometers southeast of Kathmandu.
The city was the seat of the Shah dynasty from 1768 to 2008.
The city was isolated from the outside world for centuries and was not opened to foreign aid and immigration until the 1950s.
(Haugan, Siv; Kathmandu in Store norske leksikon on snl.no - selected sections.)
Buddha statue outside Thimpu. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 27/3 2017).
Today, I could sleep in, that is, until half past seven. However, a good portion of the group had been woken up at half past five to take an extra flight over the Himalayas. They had made it to the airport, where several planes were ready to fly interested people over the mountains to Mount Everest and then back again. The planes were regular commercial flights with room for up to 100 people, but on these special flights, only the window seats were used. Since it had rained the day before we arrived in Nepal, the weather was still fairly clear over the mountains, which provided an extra great view. Both of my friends took the flight, as did several others in the group. As for me, I skipped it to rest my throat, as I’ve been suffering from the flu with a lot of coughing.
Those of us who didn’t go on the mountain flight were having breakfast when the others returned. Perfect timing, I must say. And yes, we were a bit envious.
Today's program consisted of a city tour of Kathmandu. We first visited the Swayamboudnath Stupa, located on a small hill to the west of the city. But first, we had to navigate the chaotic traffic in Kathmandu, which was just as chaotic as in the cities of India. This means that everyone is only thinking of themselves... But we made it to the stupa, though the last part of the way to the top had to be done on foot. There were many steps to climb, and at the same time, we had to try to keep souvenir sellers at bay. But we did quite well. Of course, we also had to be sure to walk clockwise around all the sacred sites. Good karma was important, you know. Once at the top by the stupa, our guide Jesper explained a lot of information about the shrine. Then we had a bit of free time, and the three of us walked around the stupa, looking around, including a stop to admire the view over Kathmandu. Afterward, we were satisfied and stayed to wait for departure. Among the rest of the group, a total of 21 people, many followed our example, while a few others looked around in the souvenir shops and made a purchase or two.
Thimpu. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 27/3 2017).
After the time we were supposed to gather again had passed, the whole group began walking back down to the bus that was waiting for us. Just before reaching the bus, Pirjo pulled out a packet of biscuits and started feeding the monkeys. And guess what? They were eager! One biscuit wasn’t enough. They gathered three or four biscuits before heading off to eat them. And when monkeys from a competing group showed up, there was a fight. They had to be chased away immediately.
The bus then drove us to the old town of Kathmandu, where we could clearly see the damage from the 2015 earthquake. We got off the bus to take a walk in this part of the city around Durham Square. But first, we had a little pick-me-up at a coffee shop! Afterward, we walked around and looked at the temple for Kurami and then went into the royal palace. The temple for Kurami had supports for the walls both on the outside and inside to prevent the walls from collapsing. Outside the royal palace, a statue had fallen, leaving only the post standing, while the temples around it were either in ruins or in the process of being restored. The royal palace itself had also suffered significant damage, and parts of it were closed off due to the risk of collapse. Other parts looked better, but nearly the entire palace had been affected by the earthquake.
After Durham Square and the royal palace, we continued our walk through the heat in the older parts of the city towards the Thamel district. Thamel is a commercial and market area. But really, the entire route from the old town had been a commercial area with all sorts of shops everywhere, plus chaotic traffic with cars, motorcycles, and pedestrians everywhere. Add to that the various restoration works on a house here and there, and you’ve got the recipe for full chaos. But it was kind of fun to wander around in this traffic scene as well...
Memorial Stupa in Thimpu. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 27/3 2017).
Once we arrived in the Thamel district, we had some free time to have lunch and do a bit of shopping. The three of us went to a restaurant recommended by our guide, along with some others from the group, to have lunch. Afterward, we found a tea shop that the staff had pointed out to us when asked. Here, I was able to buy Nepali tea, which was this year's first flush. (And Nepal has great tea regions that are neighbors to Darjeeling in India.) Then we went to the meeting point, which was a bakery, where we had a hot drink. Gradually, the whole group had gathered either inside the bakery or just outside, and it was time to head back to the hotel.
The return trip to the hotel began with a short walk out of the narrow streets to the bus. Then we had a bus ride through the city in the chaotic traffic. Once back at the hotel, the three of us decided to take a shower and then gather for a little "medicine" (i.e., Gin and Tonic - GT) to ward off the dangerous mountain mosquitoes before we went to have dinner. Actually, it was a group dinner for everyone, but since it was a buffet, each person could choose when they wanted to eat.
After dinner, we were all tired after a hot day with a lot of walking and an early start for many in the group. Additionally, we were going to be up early the next morning to take a flight over the Himalayas to Thimphu in Bhutan, so most people chose to go to bed early. I, however, stayed up working on the laptop, finishing today's entry in the diary. But now, the clock is getting close to 10 PM, so it’s time to head to bed.
PS! Since Hereford won their match and both Taunton and Tiverton lost theirs, Hereford is already league champion and continues to rise through the ranks. Now, from level eight to level seven.
Day 4 - Monday March 27. 2017
Katmandu - Thimpu and Thimpu
Memorial for Guru Drubchu. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 28/3 2017).
This day was mostly devoted to transportation since we were leaving Kathmandu and traveling to Thimphu in Bhutan. I was woken up at 5:45 in the morning to pack and get ready with my suitcase, before heading down for breakfast. Almost the entire group had breakfast at the same time starting at 6:30. Afterward, it was time to check out before the bus departed at 7:20. The transport to the airport went surprisingly smoothly, although it wasn't a long distance.
Once we arrived, we had to go through security, followed by a group check-in. This meant that our guide Jesper handled the check-in while the rest of us waited. Then, we passed through passport control and entered the waiting area. None of the three of us thought it was worth waiting there, so we continued through the next security checkpoint into a new waiting hall. When it was time for the flight, it was unclear when it would actually depart, as the times varied: 09:00 on the screen, 09:50 via a verbal announcement, and 12:20 on the boarding pass... It turned out that 09:50 was the most accurate. However, that also meant no gate was assigned when we entered, so we just had to sit down and wait. I found a seat where I could relax and half-sleep. I had had a bad night's sleep due to a lot of coughing and jet lag, so it was nice to just relax.
After quite a while of half-sleeping, a gate was finally announced. We went to the gate, and boarding started immediately. But we were just led into another waiting area! However, it wasn’t too long before we could head to the plane, but first, there was one last security check. We found our seats on the plane and sat down. Shortly after, we were ready for departure. Since I was sitting in the aisle seat and the wing was right outside the window, I didn't have the best view, unfortunately. The flight went along the Himalayas, so there was actually a lot to see. But the most spectacular view came during the approach to Paro airport in Bhutan. The approach took us through a narrow valley, where the pilot constantly adjusted in relation to the surroundings and the changing valley. You could almost feel the wings of the plane brushing against the side of the valley. But it went well, and we landed safely at Paro airport.
The path up to Tango Monastery. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 28/3 2017).
Bhutan is a small kingdom in the East Himalayas, located between China (Tibet) in the north and west, and India in the south and east.
The country is extremely mountainous and rugged.
Bhutan is one of the world’s least developed countries and is politically dependent on support from India.
For centuries, Bhutan has been very isolated from the outside world, but in recent years it has opened up somewhat.
Increasing tourism and influence from other countries have led to several measures to preserve Bhutanese culture and identity.
The name comes from the old Indian word "Bhot ant," meaning "The place where Tibet ends."
Bhutan calls itself Druk Yul, "The Land of the Thunder Dragon."
The country is located on the southern slopes of the East Himalayas.
It spans 300 km in air distance from east to west and 170 km from north to south.
The northern part is a high alpine land that ranges from around 4000 meters above sea level (masl) up to the peaks of the Himalayas at the edge of the Tibetan plateau.
The highest mountains are Kula Kangri (7554 masl) and Gangker Punsum (7550 masl).
The southern part has a tropical climate, while central areas experience a temperate climate with monsoon rains.
The climate at the border mountains in the Great Himalayas is almost arctic.
The lowlands in the south of Bhutan have humid monsoon forests, including species like salt-trees, screw palms, banana plants, and giant bamboo.
Near the Indian border, there is savanna vegetation.
The mountains in the central region were originally covered by oak forests and rhododendron forests.
Above around 2800 meters above sea level, there are coniferous forests with noble fir, pine, larch, and juniper.
In the highest parts of the country, the vegetation is alpine, and in many places, it has a desert-like appearance.
The large populations of large mammals from earlier times have now been greatly reduced.
However, Indian elephants, tigers, leopards, and axis deer still exist in small populations.
In the mountains, snow leopards and several species of wild goats live.
Birdlife is rich in the lower forests, and higher up, there are many different species of game birds.
The country was unified into one kingdom in the 17th century and was then ruled by both a secular and a spiritual prince.
The local governors had great power.
Conflicts between them led to a series of civil wars during the 19th century until 1907, when the current dynasty, the Wangchuks, came to the throne.
From 1770 onward, Bhutan was often in conflict with the British authorities in India.
In 1910, the British gained control over Bhutan's foreign policy, a control India took over in 1949.
India simultaneously committed not to interfere in Bhutan's internal affairs.
The Indians have taken responsibility for the country's security and provided significant economic aid.
Bhutan maintained strict isolation for many centuries, but around 1960, King Jigme Dorji Wangchuk initiated a reform policy with a cautious opening to the outside world.
In 1998, a democratization process began.
At that time, the king gave up his nearly absolute power and stepped down from the position of head of government.
In 2005, the king announced a draft for a new constitution that included fundamental democratic reforms.
In 2008, Bhutan held its first democratic multi-party elections.
(Reference: Haugan, Siv: Bhutan in the *Store norske leksikon* on snl.no.)
Tango Monastery. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 28/3 2017).
Afterward, it was the usual routine of filling out entry forms and getting through passport and security control. We also exchanged money into local currency. Once through, we met our Bhutanese guides, and the group was divided into two minibuses. We then set off to the capital, Thimphu, passing through narrow valleys with a river at the bottom. First through parts of the Paro Valley, and then through parts of the Thimphu Valley. Once we arrived in Thimphu, it was time for lunch at a restaurant in the city.
After lunch, we drove to a Buddha statue on a ridge above the city. The construction of the facility in connection with the Buddha was still ongoing, so only parts of the area were completed. But construction hadn’t begun until 2015, and the Buddha with its pedestal stood at a massive 169 feet and was considered to be the tallest Buddha in the world. Everything was sponsored by a Chinese billionaire living in Singapore. From certain spots on the premises, you could also get a great view of Thimphu, about 200 meters below in the valley.
On the way back to the city, we made a brief stop at a lookout point, where we could take pictures of the city. We then drove down to the center and visited a memorial stupa. This stupa was built in the 1970s in memory and honor of the recently deceased king, who was number 3 in the line of succession. It was the queen and widow who were responsible for the construction.
Next, we went to the hotel where we would stay for the next few days and checked in. In my room, I took a shower, and then went down to the bar for a little "medicine" before dinner. There I met two frustrated guys who couldn’t find a bar, meaning they had found one that didn’t serve alcohol! But when I asked the waitress about gin and tonic, of course, there was no problem. Soon, more people from the group came by, including a Swedish couple who also wanted a bit of "medicine," as well as some of the women who returned after a shopping/reconnaissance trip in the city. Then, it was time for a group dinner with a buffet at the hotel. The dinner was a bit disappointing, and the only meat dish was fried meat in brown sauce. Luckily, the meat was already cut into pieces, as it was quite tough. After dinner, most people were tired from a long day, so they quickly retired to their rooms. We three guys also did the same, and as usual, I worked on my laptop, writing today's chapter in my diary.
Day 5 - Tuesday March 28. 2017
Tango Monastery and Thimpu
Main postoffice in Thimpu. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 28/3 2017).
The Tango Monastery is a Buddhist monastery located 14 kilometres (8.7 mi) to the north of the capital city of Thimphu in Bhutan, near Cheri Mountain.
It was founded by Phajo Drugom Zhigpo (1184? - 1251?) in the 13th century and built in its present form by Tenzin Rabgye, the 4th Temporal Ruler in 1688.
In 1616, the Tibetan lama Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal meditated in its cave.
According to a local legend Phajo Drugom Zhigpo propounder of the teachings of Dodeyna who was on a visit to this place during his teaching mission heard the neighing of a horse coming from the direction of the Tango.
Concurrently, he witnessed the cliff in the form of god Tandin (horse head or Hayagriva) engulfed in flames.
The deity appearing before Zhigpo prophesied that the place was meant to build a monastery for meditation.
The prophecy also mentioned that Zhigpo would marry the Dakini, Khando Sonam Peldon, and establish the Drukpa Kagyu School of Buddhism in Bhutan.
The earliest history traced to this location is when Guru Rinpoche on a visit to the place in the 8th century had identified the place as representing the Hayagriva or horse head.
It was only in 1222 that the place again got its recognition when Phajo Drugom Zhigpo, propounder of the Drukpa Kagyu School of Buddhism, witnessed the cliff in the form of god Tandin (horse head) or Hayagriva.
Phajo Drugom Zhigpo then founded Tango Choeying Dzong, a meditation hermitage.
According to the biography of Phajo Drugom Zhigpo, Tango Choyeing Dzong is one of the four dzongs out of the twelve meditation places entrusted to him by Guru Rinpoche.
Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal migrated from Tibet to Bhutan in 1616 at the age of 23 not only at the request of Pal Yeshay Genpo but also due to a conflict with Deb Tsangpa of Tibet;
Namgyel belonged to a respectable lineage of Tsangpa Jarey in Tibet and had been christened by the name of Drukpa Rinpochhe Ngawang Tenzin Nampar Gyelwa Jigme Drak Pai Dey and had attained name and fame from a young age as an enlightened dharma preacher.
When he travelled in Bhutan on a preaching mission he was also attacked by Tibetan army (sent by his enemy Deb Tsangpa).
However, by virtue of his skills in the field of tantric art he subdued his enemies, and finally went into meditation in the caves of the Tango Monastery; the monastery had been offered to him by the Tshewang Tenzing of Dorden (now Dodena).
He deeply meditated and performed tantric ritual of Gempo in the cave of Tango.
With these spiritual powers, Zhabdrung caused the decimation of the dynasty of Deb Tsangpa of Tibet.
Consequently, he celebrated this victory by writing of his achievements by composing the “Nga Chudugma or My sixteen Accomplishments”.
The castle (Dzong) in Thimpu. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 28/3 2017).
Following his victory, Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal adopted the title of Dujom Dorjee, consolidated his powers and issued sixteen tenets.
He renamed the cave monastery as Duduel Phug and then went back to the cave for further meditation.
However, the cave was attacked by his enemies using tantric powers.
They had destroyed the cliff of the caves, which resulted in blocking of the cave by a huge boulder (size of a yak), which by providence narrowly missed killing the Namgyal,
as it is said “the boulder missed Zamdrung’s head by an inch”.
His followers considered Zamdrung’s survival as a miracle.
During this period Namgyals’ father Tenpai Nima had died and Namgyal brought his father’s body to the cave and cremated it in the cave of the horse head cliff, in Tango.
Thereafter, in 1620, Namgyal built the Chari monastery and the Duduel Chorten in memory of his father; the building was constructed by skilled carpenters brought from Nepal.
Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye son of Tshewang Tenzin and Damchoe Tenzima (daughter of the Lama of Chang Gangkha) born in 1638 AD,
received religious instructions from a very young age in the Drukpa Kargyud tradition from Shabdrung and his teacher Damchoe Gyeltshe and was very proficient in the tradition when he ascended the throne of Desi at the age of 31.
He also became the 4th Desi at the age of 43.
As the 4th Temporal Ruler he creditably ruled the country in accordance with set spiritual and temporal laws.
The Tango Monastery was rebuilt by him in its present form in 1688/1689.
The monastery built with 12 corners has the 3-storey gallery central tower.
It was further extended in the 18th and 19th centuries.
In the late 19th century, Shabdrung Jigmre Choegyal had a golden roof installed.
In 1966 AD, the 64th rJe Khenpo Jamyang Yeshey Sengyel along with Her Royal Highness the Grandmother Ashi Phuntshog Chodon also restarted the Shaydra School of Buddhist Studies.
In 1977 AD, Her Majesty the Queen Mother Ashi Kesang Wangchuck refurbished the monastery into a very elegant structure vis-a-vis the original.
The monastery underwent restoration again in the mid 1990s and is currently the residence of the 7th Tri Rinpoche, a young incarnation of Tenzin Rabgye.
Today it is run as an upper-education level monastic school.
The monastery underwent a complete renovation in 2016.
A new Buddhist college campus was built at the foot of Tango Mountain in 2016 to replace the aging meditation units in the area.
(English wikipedia.)
Village nearby Punakha. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 29/3 2017).
This day was dedicated to an excursion to Tango Monastery, followed by a city tour in Thimpu. There was no transfer, so we could sleep in. We were woken up at 07:30 and were supposed to be ready to depart at 09:00. I went down for breakfast at 08:00, and by that time, many in the group, including my two friends, had already gathered in the dining room. The breakfast was, as the dinner the night before, quite modest. But I managed to get a couple of boiled eggs and a cup of tea. Then it was just a matter of brushing my teeth, and we were ready to depart.
The first destination of the day was Tango Monastery, not far from Thimpu. It took us about three-quarters of an hour to drive there, on some narrow roads. We made two stops along the way. The first was when we spotted a group of gray langurs, and we had to get out and take some pictures. The second stop was at a painting on a large rock of Guru Drubchu, who was the monk that introduced and established Buddhism in Bhutan. Next to it was a small stream and a small house with a prayer wheel powered by the stream's water.
Once we reached the bottom of Tango Monastery, it was time for the day’s challenge: a walk of about 4 kilometers with a 300-meter elevation gain. So, it was relatively steep going up. We walked on a trail that wound its way upwards in serpentine turns back and forth. It was important to know oneself well enough to understand which pace was most comfortable. Trying to keep up with others wasn’t recommended, as that risked hitting the wall. The Tango Monastery, which we were heading to, was supposedly located at around 3,000 meters above sea level, so the thin air could play tricks on us as well.
Along the trail, there were different sculptures and cairns made by pilgrims. In addition, at many of the turns, resting spots were made so that one could take a small break before continuing. Eventually, the trail became steeper, and towards the end, there were steps leading up to the monastery itself. Most people managed to reach the top, and out of the group of 21 people, 18 made it to the monastery.
It was tough to make it all the way up, but I was among those who managed to reach the monastery. We had a tour inside the temple, and we were apparently the first group who was allowed to go in and see the three Buddhas. We wandered a bit around the monastery on our own. Some areas were under restoration, so we couldn’t access those. After spending some time at the monastery, it was time to go back down. I took almost as long to get down as I did going up, while the others rushed down. But I, for my part, wanted to be careful with my sore ankle. On the way down, I also took pictures here and there, including some of the blooming red rhododendron.
Nun monastery in Punakha. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 29/3 2017).
Once down, we gathered in the buses after taking a short break and drinking some water. Not long after, we stopped again for a photo stop at a neighboring mountain to the monastery. For on this mountain, there was also something monastery-like high up on the mountainside, with a small running stream in the valley below. Quite idyllic – if one just made sure not to step in the dog poop that was everywhere. We then continued back to Thimpu.
Once back in Thimpu, we were driven to the lunch restaurant. And, of course, it was located on the 3rd floor... But the food was good! After lunch, we went to an arts and crafts school, where we could walk into classrooms while lessons were ongoing, if we wanted to. Personally, I thought that was a step too far. It’s fine to peek in, but that’s it. And, of course, it was possible to buy! For me, it wasn’t much shopping, just a pair of earrings for a Swedish colleague. Others, on the other hand...
Thimpu is the capital of Bhutan, and it is located in the Himalayas.
Thimpu is situated in the valley of the same name in western Bhutan, at an altitude of 2200 meters above sea level.
The city has about 115,000 inhabitants (2018).
Thimpu is the seat of the country's government and primarily serves as an administrative and trade center.
The 17th-century monastery complex Tashichodzong houses, among other things, the government offices.
This is also where Je Kempo, the highest lama, resides during the summer months, along with a large number of monks.
Until 1953, the king and government moved every year with Je Kempo to the winter headquarters in Punakha.
Now, the king resides in Thimpu year-round.
Until the 1960s, Thimpu consisted of a few shops around Tashichodzong.
The traditional architecture has largely been preserved.
The city was founded in 1581 and became the capital in 1962.
Since the 1990s, there has been increasing migration to Thimpu from more remote areas.
Thimpu is now the most modern city in Bhutan, with many restaurants, shops, and internet cafés.
Thimpu is the only capital in the world without traffic lights.
(From Haugan, Siv; Thimpu in Store Norske Leksikon on snl.no.)
The castle (Dzong) i Punakha. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 29/3 2017).
The journey continued to the post office. A large, beautiful building, where it was possible to get your own picture on a stamp. Though I don't know if anyone took advantage of that opportunity, but shopping was still done. When we were finished at the post office, we still had almost an hour before we could do the last excursion of the day, so we drove back to the hotel and waited there.
Then we gathered again to do the last excursion of the day to the king's castle, the city fortress, and the government headquarters, all in one. The reason we had to wait was that no tourists were allowed in until the workday was over. We arrived at the castle from the outside and began walking along the south side of the fortress. At that point, it was not allowed to take pictures of the king’s quarters, which were directly next to the fortress. The large castle had two separate parts: one for the secular administration and the other for the spiritual administration. Most of the ministries had now moved out of the castle, but the king, the prime minister, and the foreign minister, along with their subordinates, still had offices in the secular part. In the other part, the abbot had his summer residence. There was also a temple, which was the most important temple in all of Bhutan. Our tour took place only in the spiritual part, including a visit to the temple.
After the fortress, we went back to the hotel. And here, the usual evening routine was followed: first, some medicine at the bar, then up one floor to the restaurant to have dinner with the others in the group. (Today, it was only a vegetarian dinner, which was quite okay.) Then, everyone retreated to their rooms. There, I continued working on the laptop – writing the diary – and took a shower after the day's exertions before going to bed.
Day 6 - Wednesday March 29. 2017
Thimpu - Punakha and Punakha
Bridge across the river to the castle (Dzong) in Punakha. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 29/3 2017).
Then it was time to leave Thimpu and continue to Punakha. This day was also a bit laid-back, so we were woken up at 07:30, packed our suitcases, had breakfast, and were ready to leave by 09:00. And then we drove off. Right after, it was discovered that one of the women had forgotten a jacket in her room, and since we were about to cross a pass at 3150 meters, she would like to have it back. So we turned around and drove back to the hotel, retrieved the jacket, and then we could continue on our way.
After leaving the city itself, we started heading upwards. Since Thimpu is at about 2400 meters, we were going to climb 750 meters. After about three-quarters of an hour, we reached the Dolcha La pass. Here we took a break, where everyone could go into the café and have a cup of coffee or tea. The view from the pass was toward the Himalayas, where we should have been able to see all the highest peaks in Bhutan. However, there was thick fog when we arrived, so we didn’t see anything at all. And due to the altitude, there was definitely a need for a jacket, as it was much colder up here than in Thimpu.
After a short rest, we gathered again and continued toward the day's destination: Punakha. This city is at about 1350 meters, so the descent was a whole 1800 meters. We made a stop along the way at a lookout point where we could see down the valley toward the city, but still couldn’t see it. Almost at the bottom, we stopped again and could see over part of the valley floor, but still not the city, as it was hidden behind a protruding part of the mountain. Not long after, we had reached the bottom and stopped at a small hotel where we had lunch. The hotel was somewhat isolated, with a picturesque little garden and a small stream running by.
Punakha (or Punaka) is one of the twenty dzongkhags (districts) in Bhutan.
The district capital with the same name, located at about 1500 meters above sea level, was previously the country's capital.
The city was founded in 1577 and is located where the rivers Pho-chhu and Mo-chhu meet and form the Sankosh River.
Punakha Dzong, the administrative and religious center of the district, is the winter residence of Je Kempo.
Since around 1680, the temple has also been a resting place for the remains of Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the founder of the country.
The coronation of King Ugyen Wangchuck in 1907 also took place here.
The dzong was also the king's winter residence until 1955.
Punakha borders Thimpu to the west, Gasa to the north, and Wangdue Phodrang dzongkhag to the east.
Gasa dzongkhag was part of Punakha until 1992.
Most of the buildings are located along the two rivers Pho-chhu and Mo-chhu.
(Norwegian Wikipedia)
The tree of life in the castle (Dzong) in Punakha. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 29/3 2017).
After lunch, we continued our journey and were now going to visit a nunnery located on a hill near the city. We started the ascent to the nunnery and hadn’t gone very far when we heard a strange sound and our bus stopped. It turned out that the fan belt had broken. It was a bit too far to walk up, so we squeezed everyone into the other bus, which then drove us up to the nunnery. While we had our tour there, which followed the traditional pattern with the guide explaining a few points and then giving us time to walk around on our own, the other bus went down to the city to get help.
After walking around a bit more at the nunnery, the first bus came up to pick us up. A mechanic was working on fixing the fan belt on the other bus. We squeezed together in the bus and were then driven down to the fortress in Punakha. On the way down, we passed the other bus while the mechanic was busy working. The fortress is the oldest fortress in Bhutan and was built right after the year 1600. We stopped just before we reached the fortress so we could take an overview picture of it. After parking and getting ready to go inside, the other bus caught up with us.
We walked as a group over the bridge to the island where the fortress was located, and again, it followed the traditional pattern. Here, there were a couple of extra things to note, firstly, some large beehives hanging down from the roof on the outside of the fortress. If one of them fell, it was best to be far away… Once inside the fortress, we could also see from the outside the winter residence of the abbot of Bhutan. The summer residence was in the fortress in Thimpu, which we had visited the evening before. This meant that this fortress was also actively used as an administration center for the country. As we were standing there, the monks began chanting in the temple, so we went inside, took a seat in the back row, and joined a Buddhist afternoon mass.
Once outside again, we gathered in the buses and were driven back to our hotel. The old town of Punakha was right next to the fortress, but after large parts of the town had been taken by floods, a new town had been built further down by the river. And it was here that our hotel was located. Unlike the previous hotels, which were of good quality but a bit worn, this hotel was brand new.
House in Phallos City. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 30/3 2017).
After taking a shower and working a bit on the laptop, it was time for some medicine at the bar, followed by a group dinner. The dinner was, as usual, a buffet, but fortunately, the dishes were a bit different on most days so far. After dinner, everyone retired to their rooms. There, I continued to work on the laptop and finished today’s diary entry before going to bed. I was a bit uneasy because my legs were still sore, but there had been quite a bit of stair climbing today as well.
Day 7 - Thursday March 30. 2017
Phallos City and Punakha - Paro with the Zoo in Thimpu
Today we were going to do the last excursions in the Punakha Valley before traveling on to Paro. Since it was a long drive, we were woken up a bit earlier today – at 07:00. Then it was time to pack the suitcase, have breakfast, and be ready for departure at 08:30. A bit concerning was that I had started the day with a bit of an upset stomach, hopefully, it would settle down during the day.
Phallos City, or Sopsokha as it is actually called, is a town in the Punakha district of Bhutan. The town is located by the Pajo River and is known for the fact that all the buildings in the town are decorated with one or more phalluses. Near the town is also Bhutan's only fertility temple. The temple was founded by a monk who is called The Devine Madman.
We drove a short distance by bus to a town that was simply called Phallos City. And the reason was obvious... since there was at least one image of a phallus on every single house. From there we were going to take a walk to the Divine Madman Temple. The walk went over some fields and through another small village called Lobesa until we reached the temple's entrance. Here, there were a few houses where you could buy souvenirs and use the restrooms. After a little while, we continued up to the temple itself and had a tour there. As usual, the guide spoke a little first, then showed us the most important places, and finally, we had some time on our own. Inside the temple, there was a special little bamboo stick that supposedly contained the Madman's phallus. And if women were blessed with this stick, they were said to become pregnant within three years. Apparently, this was quite popular among childless women, especially Western ones...
Divine Madmans temple outside Phallos City. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 30/3 2017).
Back at the souvenir shops, where some used the restrooms and others shopped, we gathered in the buses to begin the long journey to Paro. This meant we first drove back to Thimpu over the Dolchu La pass. Again today, there were so many clouds that we couldn't see the Himalayas. But like last time, we stopped for a cup of tea or coffee. Then we continued down to Thimpu where we had lunch.
After lunch, we went to a small zoo where we could see the Takin, which is Bhutan's national animal and can only be found in Bhutan, but not in the areas we were going to visit. We also got to see roaring deer and antelope. After that, at my suggestion, we made a quick stop at the national library and archive for a photo stop. After that stop, we were supposed to try archery, but since a few drops of rain fell, it didn’t happen. So instead, we started the journey to Paro.
After about an hour, we arrived in Paro and continued through the town to the hotel where we would be staying for the next few days. Once at the hotel, we checked in and went to our rooms. Once inside my room, I had some more stomach issues, so I decided to stay in my room and just go to bed after taking care of my little private errand. That meant the other two guys took the medicine without me.
Apparently, there had been a lot of talk about the hotel before and during dinner. One of the Swedish girls had arrived at her room, where the previous guest’s Indian dinner was still left in the bedding and on the walls. Others in the group had also arrived at poorly cleaned rooms or dirty sheets. So, a little mutiny was brewing, but the guides decided that the next day we would switch hotel.
Dag 8 - Fredag 31. mars 2017
Taktshang (Tiger's nest)
Takin. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 30/3 2017).
The Taktshang or Tiger's Nest Monastery, nestled high in the cliffs of Bhutan's Paro valley, is one of the Himalayas' most revered and essential Buddhist pilgrimage destinations.
According to mythology, the monastery was built in the 8th century by the renowned Buddhist guru Guru Rinpoche who flew there on the back of a tigress.
Since then, it has played an important part in Bhutan's Buddhist history and culture.
Guru Rinpoche, who is regarded as the second Buddha and is credited with introducing Buddhism to Bhutan, went throughout the Himalayas in the eighth century, blessing several important locations.
One of these locations was Taktshang Pelphug, a cliffside cave in Paro valley that housed several malevolent spirits.
To subdue these spirits and establish a holy place, Guru Rinpoche transformed into the deity Guru Dorji Droloe.
At the same time, Tashi Kheudron, a dakini or female enlightened being from Tibet, took the form of a tigress to serve as the Guru's mount.
Together they overcame the evil spirits and bound them with oaths to protect Buddhism.
Guru Rinpoche then concealed numerous precious religious treasures at the site, including teachings on three important yoga's or spiritual practices.
While at Taktshang Pelphug, Guru Rinpoche bestowed initiations of the deities Amrityus and Vajrakilya upon Khandro Yeshey Tshogyal and Tashi Kheudron.
The two enlightened women spent four months meditating on these practices, during which a black ritual dagger miraculously flew into the cave after subjugating spirits in neighboring regions like Nepal.
Khandro Yeshey Tshogyal and Tashi Kheudron demonstrated many miracles through their perfected meditations.
After performing sacred ceremonies, Guru Rinpoche returned to another famous sacred site, Yonphu Taktshang in Tibet, leaving his spiritual imprint on Taktshang Pelphug.
He prophesied that one day the sacred site would be further promoted.
Over the centuries, many great spiritual masters including Langchen Pelgye Singye, Jetsun Melarap, and Lam Phajo Drugom Zhigpo visited Taktshang Pelphug to meditate.
National museum in Paro. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 1/4 2017).
In 1646, the revered founder of Bhutan, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel, was conducting a special Buddhist ritual called a Drupchen at Rinpung Dzong.
That night, he dreamt of a man in black coming to offer him Taktshang.
The next day, Singye Samdrup, the guardian deity of Taktshang disguised as a poor man, came to tell the Zhabdrung of his dream and offered him control over the sacred site.
Zhabdrung gave Singye Samdrup instructions to climb atop the cliff and call out three times that from that moment, the sacred site would belong to Choeje Drukpa Ngawang Namgyel, the Zhabdrung.
Through this act, ownership of Taktshang was ceremonially transferred to Bhutan's founder, fulfilling Guru Rinpoche's prophecy.
In 1646, Zhabdrung and his spiritual son Lopen Rigzin Nyingpo visited Taktshang where Lopen Rigzin Nyingpo gave teachings.
Many auspicious signs convinced Zhabdrung of the need to build a temple there.
However, busy establishing the nation, he passed this mission to his spiritual son Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgye.
Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgye instructed Penlop Drakpa Jamtsho, the governor of Paro, to begin construction.
However, the sheer cliff made it impossible to lay the temple's foundation stones, as they kept slipping.
In a tremendous act of devotion, Gyalsey cut hair from his head and mixed it into the mortar, allowing the stones to adhere.
With this key breakthrough, construction continued smoothly and was completed in 1694.
A famous sculptor from Nepal, Pentsa, crafted a magnificent statue of Guru Rinpoche out of bronze to be the temple's main image.
While transporting the statue to Taktshang, the porters reached a particularly narrow and treacherous section of the trail called Demig gocha and refused to continue for fear of dropping the precious statue.
That night, the statue is said to have spoken, insisting it not be dismantled but rather a man would come to carry it.
Indeed, in the morning Singye Samdrup, now in human form, miraculously shouldered the weighty statue and brought it safely to its destination inside the newly constructed Taktshang temple.
Over the centuries, though a fire destroyed parts of the complex in 1998, Taktshang has been lovingly rebuilt.
Pilgrims now visit the Guru Druphu, Guru Sungjoenmai Lhakhang, Kuenra Lhakhang, Choeten Lhakhang, and several other chapels housing sacred relics.
Perched atop a sheer cliff 900 meters above the Paro valley floor, Taktshang Taktsang remains one of the most spectacular and hallowed sites in the Himalayas.
The story of Taktsang and its role in Bhutanese Buddhist history is a fascinating one that demonstrates the rich cultural and spiritual heritage of the country.
For over a millennia, this sacred site has drawn pilgrims who walk in the footsteps of Guru Rinpoche to feel closer to his blessings.
(Kinley Rabgyel: Brief History of Paro Taktshang - https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/brief-history-paro-taktshang-tigers-nest-kinley-rabgyel-9i9nc)
The castle (Dzong) in Paro. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 1/4 2017).
This was the day we were supposed to walk up to Taktshang, also known as the Tiger's Nest. With my stomach issues, I had no choice but to throw in the towel and realize that there was no point in even trying. Geir had also started to have the same problem, so he too chose to drop out before start. The remaining 19 people in the group, along with the guide, got ready after breakfast and after packing their bags to board the bus at 08:00. They were then driven to the bottom of the climb to start the walk up to the temple, 700 meters higher.
For Geir and myself, it was just a matter of waiting for the bus to return to pick us up and take us and our luggage to the new hotel. There, I continued to relax and Geir kept reading. After a while, we were told that we were not going to stay there after all, but we were headed to a third hotel. It turned out that the rooms available here were under renovation... At the same time, three of those who had tried to reach Taktshang showed up: our third guy and a Danish couple. They had turned back relatively early on the climb. This meant that none of us guys got to see Taktshang, unfortunately.
The three of us guys and the Danish couple got into the bus we arrived in and were then driven to the new hotel. The road to the hotel wasn't the best, but the hotel looked clean and nice, even though the rooms weren’t fully prepared. As for me, I went to my room and lay down, while the other four were driven into town for lunch.
A few hours later, they returned, and the buses had also picked up everyone who had hiked to Taktshang, so now we were all gathered again. Those who wanted to could join a temple visit later in the afternoon, but only two people had the energy for that.
In the evening, the three of us guys gathered in the bar and had our usual medicine, almost. They didn’t have gin, so we had to use vodka instead. Then, as usual, it was a group dinner with a buffet at the hotel. I hadn't eaten in over a day, so I was trying to get some food. After dinner, we each went to our rooms. I was still quite tired, so I didn't do much work on the laptop that evening. In the bed, there was an electric blanket, and it was warm and cozy, even though the rest of the room was cold. And despite having lounged for most of the day, I actually fell asleep quite quickly.
Performance in the castle (Dzong) in Paro. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 1/4 2017).
Dag 9 - Saturday April 1. 2017
Paro
Paro is a town and seat of Paro District, in the Paro Valley of Bhutan.
It is an historic town with many sacred sites and historical buildings scattered throughout the area.
It is also home to Paro International Airport, Bhutan's sole international airport.
The main street has many examples of traditionally decorated buildings.
The Dungtse Lhakhang (a 15th-century temple) and the Ugyen Perli Palace are near the new bridge.
Members of royal family lodge in the palace when in Paro.
Nearby is the old bridge and the Rinpung Dzong.
About 10 kilometres outside Paro is the famous Paro Taktsang Buddhist monastery and hermitage.
Some Bhutanese believe that Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) flew on the back of a tigress to this location from Tibet.
The trek to Tiger's Nest monastery takes about three hours one way.
A scenic view of the town of Paro can be seen from the Tiger's Nest.
A 16-kilometre road passes up the valley to the ruins of another fortress-monastery, Drukyel Dzong, which was partly destroyed by fire in 1951.
Paro is home to Bhutan's tallest building, the Ta-Dzhong, which is 22 meters high, and has 6 floors.
It was completed in 1649.
(Engelsk wikipedia.)
Archery. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 1/4 2017).
When I woke up this day after having slept most of the night, I felt somewhat better. My stomach had started to calm down and was no longer as explosive as before. We had been woken up at 07:30 as usual – though this time manually – had breakfast, and were ready for excursions in the Paro area with the bus leaving at 09:00.
We first went to the National Museum, which had recently had to move due to an earthquake, as the original 17th-century building had developed cracks. The museum wasn’t very large, but it was very well organized and provided a broad picture of Bhutan’s culture and nature. Since the museum was located on a hill, there was a beautiful view of the entire Paro Valley.
After the museum, we boarded the buses again and drove down to the fortress in Paro. The road up to and down from the museum had a simple bridge over the stream, made up of just a couple of logs and planks. This bridge was temporary, as a few meters further down, only the bridge foundations remained from the previous bridge. It was probably washed away by the winter flood when the small stream had become a big river. At the fortress, we expected the usual tour – or so we thought. But when we got inside, there was a rehearsal for a dance performance by the monks. Two weeks later, a big cultural festival would begin, which was the highlight of the year, and the dances would be performed in front of the king and many other dignitaries.
Between the dances, 3-4 monks dressed up as clowns entertained the audience that had gathered inside the fortress. And, of course, there were some antics with the audience. There were also many small children who were either very curious or very afraid of the clowns.
After quite a while, having seen a lot of the clowns and witnessed two of the monks’ dances, we decided to interrupt and continue with our excursion. The next stop on our itinerary was to try our hand at archery. Archery is the national sport of Bhutan, which is somewhat surprising for a Buddhist country. Those who wanted to, could try several times. However, hitting the target proved much harder than one would think. The arrows flew both short and far, but none of us managed to hit the target.
Eventually, it started raining, so we gathered in the buses and drove to lunch. From the place where the buses stopped to the actual restaurant where we would eat, it was a few minutes' walk. When we started walking, a big thunderclap sounded, and then the rain began to pour down. Everyone ran up and into the safety of the small lodge, some wetter than others. We found our places in the dining rooms, and we had to use two rooms since there were so many of us.
Demonstration How to make Momo. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 1/4 2017).
Before lunch, we were given a demonstration of how they make Momo, a Bhutanese version of Dim Sum. After the demonstration, several people in the group got a chance to try it themselves. While this was happening, we heard another thunderclap, and the power went out. Nonetheless, those who wanted to try were able to, before we had the best meal of the trip so far.
After lunch, we visited the neighboring house to the lodge where a typical family lived. Here, we got to see how a traditional Bhutanese family lived and how the house was furnished. And all the houses had set aside a couple of rooms for a temple, where a monk would come once a week.
Afterwards, we had the afternoon free for shopping in Paro. A few chose to return to the hotel and relax, including Geir, who was also suffering from a bit of an upset stomach. In Paro, Kristen and I leisurely strolled around, did some shopping, and each had a pot of tea. While we were sitting there, three of the Swedish group members came over and sat at our table. We were going to visit one last store before returning to the hotel, and I went over to pay, but our bill had already been added to the Swedish group's and was already paid! After finishing our shopping, we gathered in the buses and headed back to the hotel.
Back at the hotel, we were to gather in the bar for a free drink, sponsored by the local agent as compensation for the hotel issues. Afterward, we were to be entertained by a local folk dance performance. Unfortunately, it started raining again, so the folk dance had to take place in the dining room. Then it was the usual buffet dinner, and we retired to our rooms.
Day 10 - Sunday April 2. 2017
Thimpu - Katmandu and Bakhtapur
Druk Air airplane. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 2/4 2017).
The day had come, and we were saying goodbye to Bhutan. We were woken up at the usual time, 07:30, packed our suitcases, had breakfast, and were ready for departure at 09:00. It wasn't a long way to the airport, where we said goodbye to our Bhutanese friends – that is, our guides and drivers. Then there was a security check before we were inside the check-in hall. Here, our guide did a group check-in where most of us were upgraded to premium economy. This meant seats further up in the plane and the ability to disembark quickly. Then it was passport control, another security check, and finally, we were in the waiting area. The official departure time was 11:45, but around one o'clock, boarding was ready. We boarded, and eventually, the plane was ready for takeoff. I was lucky to have a window seat facing north, towards the Himalayas. However, there was a lot of fog, so only a few peaks were visible, and it was hard to tell which ones they were.
Bhaktapur, the smallest city among the three ancient cities of Kathmandu Valley boasts of cultural heritages, architecture and organic ethnic newari lifestyle.
Situated about 20 kilometres east of the capital city Kathmandu, this city is also known as ‘The City of Devotees‘.
This beautiful place of history and art holds up a decent population of 225,000.
With lush green fields surrounding the core city, the majority of the population of this place rely on agriculture to sustain their daily needs.
Nonetheless, Bhaktapur collects 60% of its revenue through tourism.
Undoubtedly, the historical art and architecture etched in the walls of the heritage of the city has obliged a lot to bring up this data.
This city was founded in the 12th century by King Ananda Malla.
Many other monarchs ruled over this little space until Prithvi Narayan Shah invaded this city during the reign of Ranjit Malla.
Hosting a population that contains 92% Hindu and 7% Buddhist, Bhaktapur has many temples and Bihars which are related to these two prominent religions.
The four popular squares, Bhaktapur Durbar Square, Pottery Square, Taumadi Square and Dattatraya Square, unfold the rich culture, settlement, history and development that has been present in Bhaktapur for ages.
Other than this there are numerous temples, mostly in Pagoda Style in almost every alley.
Not only this, there are many significant Bihars such as Lokeswor Mahavihar, PrasannaSheel Mahavihar, Chatur Brahma Mahavihar, Jaya Kriti Mahavihar, Sukra Varna Mahavihar and Dipankar Mahavihar.
The massive earthquake of April 2015 demolished many of the ancient monuments.
However, most of them have stood again with the help of a prompt restoration program done by the Bhaktapur Municipality.
All the monuments are rebuilt or renovated using the same old traditional technologies rather than concrete materials.
This has added more beauty and significance to the already established aesthetics of Bhaktapur.
(Bhaktapur.com on internet: Bhaktapur: A Tale of the ancient trade city.)
Himalaya in fog. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 2/4 2017).
Once we arrived in Kathmandu, we walked off, while quite a few passengers stayed on the plane for the flight to Delhi. Our visas were still valid, so we quickly passed through passport control. We picked up our luggage and walked together through customs to meet the Nepali guide, driver, and the bus waiting for us. Then we drove to Bakhtapur, where we had a brief tour of the old town and then some free time. The most eager shoppers found plenty to buy in the narrow streets, while others, like us, went for a coffee or tea.
After that, we gathered again in the bus and slowly made our way through the rush hour traffic to the hotel, which was the same hotel where we had stayed the first nights here. The local guide had noticed my cough, so when we arrived at the hotel, I just dropped off my things in the room, and then he and I went to the nearest pharmacy. There I got both cough syrup and tablets, and everything should be fine in 2-3 days.
Back at the hotel, I brought my suitcase into the room, which had been left in the hallway outside. Shortly after, the bellboy came and asked if everything was okay. I then took a shower and went downstairs to join the guys for today's medicine. We sat and talked a bit about the trip, and when the drink was finished, we went to the restaurant and joined the rest of the group for dinner. Afterward, I returned to my room. It was time for the cough syrup, which was to be taken after breakfast, lunch, and dinner. And it seemed to work pretty quickly, as much of the mucus loosened up right away. I then had to wait an hour before taking the evening pill, so I worked a bit on my laptop with today's diary in the meantime. I had already caught up on the backlog from previous days earlier in the day while we were waiting for the flight departure. After taking the pill, it was really just time to say goodnight and crawl into bed.
Day 11 - Monday April 3. 2017
Katmandu valley
Kohkana. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 3/4 2017).
On April 25, 2015, an earthquake with a magnitude of 7.8 struck, with its epicenter between Pokhara and Kathmandu. It is estimated that around 10,000 people died in the earthquake, making it the deadliest disaster in Nepal's history. The earthquake occurred shortly after 6 AM in the Kathmandu Valley, which is the most densely populated area in the country. There were also several aftershocks, including one on May 12 with a magnitude of 7.3. Many villages were more or less wiped out, and there was widespread destruction across the area, with many cultural heritage sites damaged. Many of the destroyed cultural landmarks were on UNESCO's World Heritage List. After one year, a significant amount of money had been raised worldwide for reconstruction. However, almost nothing had been done. When we were there two years later, not much had been done either.
The last day in Nepal started like all the others with a wake-up call at 07:30, followed by breakfast and departure at 09:00. Today, we went to the southern part of the Kathmandu Valley. We were dropped off by the bus in a small town called Bungmati. From here, we were to take a short walk through small villages and cultivated areas to another small town called Kohkana. The whole walk took a couple of hours in the sunshine. As in other places in Nepal, you could see how the 2015 earthquake had left its clear marks.
After the walk, we got back on the bus and were driven to Patan, formerly known as Lalipur. Here, we took the short walk into the central part of the old town and visited the old royal palace. Inside, we had lunch before visiting the museum. A museum well worth the visit. Once back outside, the guys and I had some time to wander around the small old town before it was time to gather again. We then traveled back to the hotel and relaxed for a bit.
In the afternoon, we had one last excursion on the trip to the Pashupatinath Temple to watch the fire dance. We walked together from the hotel at 17:30, but we hadn’t walked more than 10 minutes when it started pouring rain and hailing. It was all about finding shelter. Some of us found a small shop with a bit of roof, and we took shelter under it. The woman in the slaughterhouse felt so sorry for us that she let us inside the shop while the worst of the storm passed. And as abruptly as it started, it was over after 10-15 minutes. Those who wanted could then choose to turn back to the hotel, but everyone decided to continue on.
Patan. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 3/4 2017).
After a quick walk, we finally arrived at the Pashupatinath Temple, though from the back. We went in and up to the top, looking down the other side at the holiest temples by the Bagmati River, a tributary of the Ganges. They were still preparing for the dance, so we spread out a bit to get the best possible spots. Nearby, they were still performing cremations... The fire dance itself was a smaller version of the one in Varanasi, India, but here the audience was much more involved, some perhaps a little too much. It was fun, though.
After the fire dance, we walked past the cremation pyres to the bus and were driven back to the hotel. Here, we just went up to our rooms to drop off jackets and cameras before heading out for dinner. Since it was already 20:15 when we arrived at the hotel and dinner was served until 21:00, the guys didn’t have any medicine that day. After finishing our meal, we just went back to our rooms. There, I took my cough syrup, wrote the day’s journal, then took my pill and went to bed.
Day 12 - Tuesdag April 4. 2017
Katmandu - Istanbul
The day had come to return home. We could sleep a little longer in the morning since the flight wasn’t until later in the day. I got through my morning routine and then went to the dining room to have breakfast with the others. After breakfast, I went back to my room, packed my suitcase and backpack. Then it was time to double-check that nothing was left behind before I went downstairs with my luggage. Most of the others were already ready to leave when I got downstairs.
Fire dance in the Pashuvati temple. (Photo: Terje Pettersen-Dahl, 3/4 2017).
When everyone had arrived downstairs, we got into the cars that took us to the airport. We had allowed plenty of time, considering the traffic. But we got through easily and thus had plenty of time at the airport. Once there, it was the usual routine with check-in and security. Once through, it was just a matter of waiting until we could board the flight to Istanbul. After waiting for a while, it was time to board. We found our seats, and with that, we could say goodbye to Nepal as well.
As usual for me, it was mostly dozing during the flight. When we arrived in Istanbul, it was late afternoon, and all flights to Scandinavia had already departed. So, we got an overnight stay in Istanbul. That meant we also had to go through security and passport control again. We checked into a hotel at the airport. We had time to travel into Istanbul and explore, but none of us felt the need to do so. So, we had dinner at the hotel with some medicine afterward. Then we went to our respective rooms.
Day 13 - Wednesday April 5. 2017
Istanbul - Oslo
Then it was time for the final part home. We woke up early since the flight was in the morning. The luggage had already been checked in to Oslo, so we just needed to take care of the hand luggage. We had breakfast with the others, and then it was just a short walk over to the airport. After that, it was time to check in and get through security. Once through, we said goodbye to the others in the group who were headed to destinations other than Oslo. Then we went to the gate, sat down, and waited to board. Eventually, we boarded, and the flight took off home to Oslo.
Upon arriving in Oslo, it was time to pick up the luggage. I said goodbye to the other guys since I was taking the bus, while they took the train. I got on the bus and got off at Smedstua. There, I switched to the local bus home to Stovner.
Once home, it was just to acknowledge that yet another wonderful vacation had come to an end!